SVgamer72

You have a couple of options.. 1. Invert them in DCS (map the axis, highlight it, and then click "Axis Tune"). There is a check box to invert on the screen that opens up. i also recommend clicking the "slider" box as well for the throttle, but that is personal preference. This is also where you can use a custom user curve to tune the axis response and AB threshold if you want. 2. In the Virpil software you can double click on an Axis and there is an "invert" checkbox. Once inverted and calibrated you can save it to the throttle profile.

You should search for video comparisons/reviews online to see the differences. It is really up to you as they are more alike than different. The CM2 base has been criticized by some for asymmetrical cams. I don't have personal experience with this. It is much easier to tune a CM2 to fit you (you can adjust spring tension without having to take it apart). The CM2 also comes with additional spring and cam sets. The WarBRD has the option to change springs, but you can't adjust or fine tune them. You also have to buy additional springs/cams separately. I have the 3 straight Virpil extensions and the newer S-curve. All work perfectly on either base and even a TM base. Neither the WarBRD or TM are intended for use with an extension, but you can still do it if you want to. I have my WarBRD side mounted in an Obutto simpit with a 50mm extension (about the same overall height with a WH grip as a CM2 grip with no extension), and my T-50 center mounted with the S-curve. I swap back and forth, and when I figure out which I like best, I will eventually sell the other. For mounting options, both can be used with Virpil Desk Mounts, Monstertech, Foxx Mounts, or DIY (you can pick up wood/metal at a local HW store and fabricate a mount or base plate for either and if you have access to a 3D printer you can download plans people have already created for various mounting options or order something from a 3D shop online).

The 6700K @4.0Ghz, GTX1070, and 32GB of memory should be fine for DCS at 1080P. It won't run max settings, but it isn't that slow or under powered. Assuming you don't have an SSD (solid state drive)... Spend your money on a 512-1TB SSD. If you are paying someone to do the work, pay to have your OS drive imaged and moved to the SSD. This is a common upgrade, and you will see a huge improvement in system and DCS performance if you are currently on a 7200rpm spinning HDD.

I used a WH for years, got the T-50 when it came out, and recently picked up a WarBRD to see if I liked it better... There is nothing wrong with the WH stick. Until Virpil and VKB came along it was ranked the best available. - The plastic ball gimbal will collect dust and wear over time. If you are hard on it (apply too much Z-axis twist, slam it around ham fisted, or use an extension that increases the forces you apply), you can accelerate the wear and tear or even break it. The vast majority of users have no issues for years. A basic design flaw is the spring forces apply unevenly, but again until other options hit the market, it wasn't a problem big enough to dethrone it. FYI, the TM F-16 grip (no different than the A-10C grip that has been sold for years) is @$50 less than a complete stick/base on Amazon right now. If you are a desktop user (stick on desk and not on a dedicated mount), then you should be looking at the WarBRD from Virpil as it is designed for this use case and is shorter. the CM2 grip is amazing if you are not dead set on a western A-10C/F-16 style. It is tall by comparison to the TM, but it can still work on the desktop, and with a WarBRD base the height will be less of an issue. The CM2 base is designed to be used with a dedicated mount and if desired an extension. It doesn't come with a base plate for desktop use. If your ultimate goal is to mount the stick with/without an extension, then you will want the CM2, but plan for how you will mount it for use on a desktop (you will need a base plate) if you are not going to mount it immediately. FYI, rumor on the HOTAS discord is that Virpil will restock tomorrow, and things go quick... Date: 16.05.2020 Time: 6pm GMT Restocked Items: VPC MongoosT-50CM2 Base VPC MongoosT-50CM2 Throttle VPC WarBRD Base

50/50 chance ;)

Heatblur code delayed ? I purchased a single license from the HB site on Sat. I received an email with a key in less than 10 minutes. Maybe check your spam folder or purchase confirmation email. Maybe you missed it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Based on current state (5/1/2020) and issues reported on these forums with performance in recent patches... Order of potential improvement.... 1. DCS needs tuning/patching 2. 32Gb of RAM running 3200-3600 (you need to move data between CPU-RAM-GPU as efficiently as possible, and DCS is a RAM hog) 3. OC your CPU to as close to 5Ghz as you can get it to feed your GPU. (single threaded CPU performance is the most important factor once everything else is tuned as well as you can get it)

No FC3 planes are the same bought individually or combined in the FC3 module. If you are unsure just look for how to tutorials on YouTube for planes you are interested in. All the helos are full fidelity. * DCS F-15c startup (FC3) * DCS F/A-18C startup (Full Fidelity) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Combat_Simulator The planes in the "Flaming Cliffs 3" module do not have clickable 3D cockpits, or advanced avionics/systems. They do all have full fidelity flight models. When people reference "full fidelity", they mean clickable cockpits, realistic avionics (start procedures etc.). Only the A-10 Warthog has both an FC3 (A-10A) and Full Fidelity (A-10C) version in the game with the "C" being fully clickable with all the bells and whistles.

Congrats! The thrill of the kill never really goes away or gets old.

FWIW...

I put this together a while ago to help explain how to export them and configure the LUA. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4269827&postcount=7

I can't believe no one answered with.. "Mk.I Eyeball" :)

There is a post around here somewhere with the fix. So don't give me credit for it :) If you use a mod manager (JGSME or OvGME), the attached zip should solve the issue, and it passes IC check. F-16_MFD_Export_Fix.zip

DCS uses Windows display settings. So if Windows sees it as a monitor under display settings, it doesn't matter if it is USB, HDMI, VGA, DVI, DP, etc.

Three monitors that are 1920x1080 all in a row have a max width of 5760 You DCS resolution in-game should be 5760x1080 Monitor 2 starts drawing at x=1920 (where you have your central viewport x/y coords) Monitor 3 starts drawing at x=3840 LMFD starts at x=4352 (using your numbers.....1920+2432....you didn't include monitor 1 in your math) RMFD starts at x=4864 (using your numbers.....1920+2944....you didn't include monitor 1 in your math)

Remove or comment out these 2 lines at the bottom and see if it works better LEFT_MFCD = Viewports.LEFT_MFCD RIGHT_MFCD = Viewports.RIGHT_MFCD It should look like this... _ = function(p) return p; end; name = _('2020_1440P_+MFDs'); Description = 'MFCD on second screen' Viewports = { Center = { x = 0; y = 0; width = 2560; height = 1440; viewDx = 0; viewDy = 0; aspect = 1.7; } } LEFT_MFCD = { x = 2560; y = 334; width = 690; height = 690; } RIGHT_MFCD = { x = 3406; y = 334; width = 690; height = 690; } UIMainView = Viewports.Center GU_MAIN_VIEWPORT = Viewports.Center

Are the last two lines of you file like below? UIMainView = Viewports.Center GU_MAIN_VIEWPORT = Viewports.Center Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks fantastic!

See if this helps you figure it out. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4269827&postcount=7 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like you can rebuild the ant/elev pots with parts for a Fender guitar.... https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=4274682#post4274682 I ordered a couple to see if I can restore my dusty TQS, but they haven't arrived yet.

Keep the 1080ti unless upgrading to a 2080ti. It has 11Gb of RAM (vs 8Gb), and DCS doesn't benefit from RTX or DLSS. You won't see huge gains even with a 2080ti unless you consider 24-29% "huge". https://forums.mudspike.com/t/gtx-1080-ti-vs-rtx-2080-ti-dcs-shootout/8049

Congrats and welcome!!

Did you click the reset option in Windows (Settings tab under properties for the device)?

Reported wear issues with the physical detents leading to potential mechanical failure. There are probably older posts on this forum about it if you care enough to search. Virpil apparently considered it a big enough risk to long term use to discontinue making the throttles with detents. They do offer a programmable virtual detent option that works just fine. While not ideal, it is better than nothing if a detent is required and you want the other features the CM2 offers (eg more analog axes and hats/buttons on the grip than the WH). The community is already making 3D printed finger-lift detents for the first gen throttle (the one with the larger base that is no longer sold). It’s only a matter of time before the same add-on option exists for the CM2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk