[DBS]TH0R

Sounds promising. Will comment when I give it a try. :)

First they need to sort out their MP code in the first place, to prevent lagging and zooming. Then we can request a dual seater which would of course be a awesome. :)

Not working on my end as well.

Also known as the "overhead break" maneuver. The landing part of it, so called "combat version", is similar to the curved carrier approach developed by Royal Navy for corsair carrier operation.

Enjoyed that. Thank you. :)

TF-51D is screaming for a dual control in multiplayer.

Tempest and DCS, now that would be a combo!

Give a soul to already beautifully modeled P-51D.

SimHQ review is in.

Good to see this up and running. :thumbup: +1

Software features are visible at ~ 7:00 min.

The pedals have matured with the latest software and electronic updates, from when I first reviewed them last year: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=110618 The biggest problem you are looking at is their narrow base and getting used to holding both feet on them all the time - else they tend to bank with toe brakes set to a shallow angle. All this is easily solved with either placing them against something solid so they can not move around, or best solution you can do - mount them properly with screws to the floor or your simpit. But when you weigh in all the pros, this really is negligible. :)

Very nicely done! I did not have to polish out the joints on mine but if the ceramic grease wears out I'll probably go the extra mile like you did. :-)

Nice read. Thanks MP

From Wags:

UPDATE After electronics update pedals now feature a bootloader, I am now running the latest firmwire: - The problem of high ID is now gone and the pedals will assume the very last ID in line. - Additionally, the pedals now feature auto calibration so that you can just plug them in and go do some flying. You would be hard pressed to find an issue with these now, and Milan is constantly working on improving them. ^^ Second batch of pedals is being shipped out with the above fixes.

Congratulations! You just won the best set of rudder pedals currently on the market (which will only get better with time, but I am not allowed to share any info - mr. Šimundža will do that). Hope we get some screens when they arrive. EDIT: I was about to comment on that when first writing my reply, but opted not to. A great set of pedals to a great pilot, is all that I will say. :music_whistling:

Thank you OP for your instructions and comments. But the essential details on what to watch out for when disassembling the base and the ball joint itself are missing and have not been posted (they were only mentioned by others). I've used Tamiya Ceramic Grease. Worked wonders... I've taken few images after disassembling. Here are my tips on how to do it and what this thread was missing: --- The disassembly was simple up to the point where I had to disconnect the upper piece of the ball joint (white arrow). It just wouldn't budge. This is what the end result should look like: Having read how the inner wires are super thin and sensitive, I did not wish to try my luck with "using the force". After closer inspection of the bottom side and removing the thick USB cable from its U joint, I was able to push in the wires (red arrow) that are connected to the upper ball joint electronics into the connecting hole (white arrow). The upper part of the ball joint then popped out itself: Next step was to push out the two stud bolts from the inside. Do not try to using flat screwdriver from the outside, it will only damage their heads! This required a lot of force but 3mm Allan key did the job as advertised. Being careful not to touch the wires, I've used the other side of the square hole as a restraint and pushed in the opposite direction (red arrow): The first step was to remove the old grease. With soap, paper towels and me being slightly OCD about it, this took about 2h. Here you can see the two stud bolts. One cleaned and another still greasy. Another thing worth mentioning is the position of the inner ball joint part. Be careful with re-assembling it again, the white arrows point to the two holes that need to connect (for the wires to go through): After removing grease from all 5 springs, 4 metal poles, different base cylinders and every ball joint piece (essentially everything), it was time to apply the ceramic grease. I wasn't able to remove the old grease 100%, but I did get close enough. Be sure to clean up any left over soap. This is closest to "mat finish" that I got: First I greased up the inner part of the lower ball joint piece: After placing the inner ball piece back in, removing it out again and adding the same amount of grease once more it was time to grease up the whole lower ball joint sub-assembly: Going crazy with the grease, and watching out for the contacting surfaces after initial greasing: Plugged in again, to be or not to be: The results: I did immediately notice benefits of the new grease, even before plugging it in. At first it seemed a bit more smooth, the stickiness was gone and the overall force required to move the stick seemed lower. But only after I fired up the game did I experience what kind of difference this makes: The stick feels totally different now. Long gone is the "Hog elbow", the amount of control you have over the plane is amazing. This became even more obvious when flying formation. Tiny micro adjustments are now possible and the high resolution sensor this thing has really comes to life. This will be my primary stick from now on, plain and simple (been using MS FF2 for prop sims). Next step: hard mounting... :smartass:

Got it while it was free. Thanks for the heads up!

Hawing owned (sold by now) Simpeds for over a year and a half I will say this. If looking for the ultimate precision/control and quality then you need pedals without a pronounced center and something that isn't made strictly from metal. Simpeds were always cold on touch during winter/fall and had a very pronounced center. The other vital area where the pedals need to score high are ergonomics. Simpeds were built for a simpit use, not so much for mounting below your desk. The adjustable pedal angle is a must here. MFG score on all three areas and for the price mr. Šimundža is asking - there is no better model currently on the market. Ditto. Only Bauer and MFG currently feature cam profiles. The difference is huge in comparison with what others have to offer, and in some simulators this translates into a substantial advantage... From what I can see, SlowDevice's pedals feature a more or lees a pronounced center. Which is a shame. They look amazing.

Milan unfortunately doesn't have an account here at ED forums. I did point him to your question though, and he pointed me to one of his replies on other forums. Here it goes: As others will testify, the material is of superb quality for the task. For more information you can always shoot off an email through his website.

Very nice work! Glad to see MP supplied you with the 4 stangs track. :)

My thoughts exactly. Sub forums here are arranged so 3rd party and all the modules they are working on are placed inside their section as Sub-Forum. ED modules have a standalone sections for the example. If and when we see a different project from RRG studios, then we will see a Sub-Forum next to DCS WWII: Europe 1944.

#1 Thicker prop, as visible in screens below: Current in-game prop, with various pitch settings... On the ground with pitch fully forward On the ground with pitch fully back (rapid change, before the governor can react) In flight, 2700 RPM, 50" MP Compared with some shots from YT videos: Take off In-flight ^^ Not just the thickness, but the shape is off as well IMO. Should be thinner towards the maximum propeller radius. #2 Engine exhaust / smoke Are engine exhaust flames really visible during daylight? I'd love to see some of these flames licking out instead (due to over-priming??): #3 Packard Merlin sound

Game version 1.2.6. Anyone else noticed it in MP? We spotted this when filming tracks for Mystic's Unofficial Promotional Trailer...