Sokol1_br

This damaged parts looks 3D printed, in low resolution.

(Bodnar) BU0836A or (derekspearedesigns) DSD12 cards is overkill in this case, since a $5 Arduino do the job in the same way. 6 pins connector suggest a kind of circuit internally, for code buttons press. If don't plan use this Quadrant anymore with Yoke, just remove any internal circuit and 6 pin cable and make new wiring direct to Arduino pins using a 1x1 matrix to the 6 buttons, more easy than try decode how work, and just need a iron solder.

Here the guy say that is 1.5mm pitch: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2845360&postcount=4

Probable no, even after joystick "boutiques" show that CAM gimbal provide a more flexible, customisable option, they release TPR with the old pincer system, and... surprise, pedal owners praise the system as "the more precise, realistic" they have used to date. So it should be better (for them) to invest money in marketing than in replace existing mechanics. ;)

Don't know, VKB show this picture (in il2.ru) more as "concept proof", some user that have luck in own VKB electronic adapter (for Warthog) did the assembly. Anyway, seems that "mere mortals" are not eligible for own that adapter, produced once during a rare Moon eclipse simultaneous with Solar system planetary alignment. :D

Yes, this pic above is an user setup (posted in il-2.ru forum). EDIT - In fact no reason for F-18 AddOn grip don't work in VKB and VirPil bases compatible with Warthog grip, since F-18 AddOn grip emulates Warthog in number of buttons.

Break "proof" setup. ;)

User setup, using (VKB) adapter for Warthog. https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_2019_08/GF_F-15.thumb.png.5185e4fb0aa074c8f45e1b5d4751fbb5.png

This picture show base connectors in main PCB, inside base: https://uploads.mudspike.com/original/3X/1/9/196d7ac093345d438cf15ed4daa867083c55ef11.jpeg See this topic, similar issue: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3707757/re-wiring-diagrams-for-tm-warthog#Post3707757 One cable is for grip, other for HALL sensor (both using serial protocol), follow wires colors for put pins back in connector - case plan repair this cable. The individual black wire - more tick, is ground for DIN connector metal case. Picture show where are bolted in base. This joystick had gimbal break? This smashed wires suggest this, they came for base in middle of magnet support: http://www.simhq.com/_technology3/images/technology_174a_022.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HcQQ2QAmnQQ/UN3Le5Y2mHI/AAAAAAAAAuk/SpA8cxYH32I/s720/20121228_103934.jpg Magnet support - the "tower" in middle of cup in above picture, the "articulation sphere" of gimbal and HALL sensor PCB are OK?

Look in this topic: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2943388&postcount=113

VKB grip compatibility with other brands controllers is locked in grip firmware, yes the grip has their own micro controller and firmware, so don't expect miracles. ;)

500 euro voucher https://virpil.com/en/blog

Alternative. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2993877

For short the search. 1 - OTTO P1-1111 or P1-12111 push button switches is almost "pnp" as replacement for Warthog push button pinky and lever buttons (that use an cheap "copper dome PCB" as tactile switch under their metal cap) just require a layer of plastic tap for fit well. OTTO P1-1111 requires 3 lbs of force for click, what may feel "real" but maybe became tiresome in a length game sessions. P-1-12111 require 2.5 lbs of force. See a example of replacement with OTTO switch there: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3240303&postcount=495 If find OTTO P-1 expensive (~$ 30) look at their datasheet for physical sizes and search for NKK MB 2000 series switch with similar size. MB 2000 require 2 lbs of force for operation. https://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e27/hrvhegeykc/IMG_20150109_220853_zps5dd57673.jpg Other possibilities, from this topic: Eaton 1XX: 4 lbs. Apem 8000: 1.8 lbs. Knitter MPS103: 0.7 lbs. An DIY guy can just disassemble the original Warthog push button switches, remove that cheap "tactile copper dome PCB" and replace then with OMROM B3F (12x12) series switch, a model of this series is used in Warthog trigger. An original switch disassembled: The "tactile PCB" is the green part at left, inside a plastic cup, is the part that usually broken.

The number of occurrences is relatively small (%), being the most common complain gimbal stiction and "slew": 1 - Stiction in gimbal, an popular workaround is dismantle (what led some people to destroy internal connectors, cables... :D) sand and apply Nyogel 767A ($15 per small tube). 2 - When manipulate by "wrong" hands, the "articulation sphere" of gimbal - made in plastic, can broken, an replacement cost ~30 Euros. 3 - In really "wrong" hands, besides the articulation sphere" the magnet support inside gimbal "bell" can broken too, in this case Thrustmaster suggestion is buy a new base. 4 - The "neck" under grip may suffer "Zinc pest" and broken - most of metal parts of the famous "build like a tank" are in ZAMAC. Thrustmaster sell replacement*, 3D printed replacement is available in Debolestis Shapeways shop, no case of broken is know, but when printed in plastic may flex a bit. 5 - The "slew" in throttle is considered by most players almost useless, because operation result very imprecise. An ~50 Euros 3rd party replacement option exist. * Are cases (in this forum) in what the owners claim that Thrusmaster support negate sell replacement parts.

Tm sell replacement "articulation sphere" (technical name)*, cost around 30 Euros. But if the magnet support inside the "bell" - in what "articulation sphere" fit is broken Tm will suggest you buy a entire new base. *Are drawings for 3D print the "articulation sphere", but not much feedback about the result. https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2456568&postcount=2

Neither rust or peel paint, I have seen pictures of "all metal" pedals (2 different brands) with some rust.

But OP use "warthog stick, throttle, and 3 of the MFDs", this combined will not surpass TARGET 32 buttons (8 axes, 1 POV HAT) limit? An (awkward) option is assign a key for Discord PTT an use TARGET for set throttle button #4 for press this key, or if don't want use TARGET, use JoyTokey that use less resources than TARGET.

ZAMAC. If Zinc used is not 99.99% pure, became subject to "Zinc pest". Cougar suffer similar issue: http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2015/10/full-39420-110735-20151015_204203.jpg

Other "high end" option is VirPil version of well regarded BRD (Baur) pedals, like Slaw Viper allow use with heels on the floor. https://virpil.com/en/blog/166-vpc-pre-orders-update

Well, use this "incident" as excuse for buy Virpil T50CM base. ;)

By just ignore one of F-16 stick HAT* on top and the button under index you have the same number of controls of F-18 grip, in similar positions for hand. * Or better assign this for "game functions" like center TrackIR, zoom, flyby views, etc. ;)

This sounds more a module problem than hardware (CH throttle) problem. Perhaps a custom curve (in DCS controls options) for throttle axis help. If joystick software is important for you (other than for calibration) Joystick Gremlin is a reasonable alternative for CH soft Windows 10 issues. Thing is that buying a TWCS you are not improving the hardware, this "entry level" throttle use more cheap components, and have stiction problem in their (no so) S.M.A.R.T. rail system, requiring a tube of Nyogel 767A for really improve.

So if is not the "infamous" firmware issue, inspect the gimbal gears, if they are not wear out, seems made in acrylic or similar. I see a guy mentioning, time ago in another forum, that have to 3D print new gears for their G940. Compared to MSFFB2, G940 sold very little, ending considered by players a not very good joystick, why don't see too many - or even few, MOD in then. IMHO - Fighterstick gimbal is too floppy for worth the work of install HALL sensors. Is OK with potentiometer because use an old type (CTS) made in metal and pot pole is part of gimbal - if remove potentiometer gimbal fall apart, so play in plastic parts don't disturb readings.

1 - Google for "G940 reverse bug". 2 - Since CH Flightstick is just a 4 buttons + POV HAT grip I assume that you mean CH Figherstick. Fighterstick grip has 16 buttons + POV HAT, what us more thant G940 controller handle, so you need use external controller like Arduino+MMJoy2 or BU0836, DSD12, etc. Fighterstick grip use 5x4 matrix, what theoretically allow you add more 4 buttons in this grip, e.g a 2nd stage in trigger, a "paddle lever" (F-16 style)...