DeepDrummer

Thanks Sokol1_br. That is all good information. Much appreciated.

[quote=Sokol1_ But this is an small detail that for some reason went wrong - like the compass "Lubber Line" wrong fixed in Course Setter dial (movable) and not in compass bow (fixed), that don't worth spent effort in fix, after all who care about this? :) I care. I set it on the ground and then again in level flight. (bound to the throttle friction lever TM Hotas). If it's not right, I hope it gets corrected.

Whoa. I got the sputtering without the light yesterday. I was climbing up over 20,000 but the rpm was always above 1800 and heats and pressures were good. It's a good job I read this post. I wobble pumped the snot out of it and it picked up so I flipped on the tank pressure and all was well. Lesson learned. Trust your gut. Never say never. My bad.

I have to agree that bombs and drop tanks are required. I have them pre-bound to my controller in anticipation. Did the LF MK IX not have a latch to hold the brake lever? A binding for that would be helpful although I have a workaround or my own controller. The only time I have to touch a mouse or a keyboard is when I choose to re-arm and re-fuel which of course lets you pick how much of which to load. It would be great If a "default full load or something" button could be highlighted When one chose to re-arm and re-fuel and a simple "enter" pulse could pick it. That would certainly round out the package for myself. All of the aforementioned tweaks in previous posts of course are expected and we remain hopeful. I find the Spit far more polished in the controls department than the Axis warbirds. Every switch should have an OFF, ON AND Toggle binding that can be referred to in a keybind and in complete working condition before any Aircraft gets to come out of Alpha in my opinion. Absolutely no binding should be mouse only. More specifically one should not have to "mouse over" any button to make it operate by clicking it although that "option" is acceptable and should be available to those that prefer it. I enjoy reaching for an actual switch personally. The Spit fills that bill. I'll settle for the fuel drop tank. I Love my Spitfire.

There may be some ideas for some folks in my Current Spitfire profile and kneeboard stuff. For interested parties I attached templates, a profile one could import into the control profile section, spreadsheets to edit at will. Only because it works so very well for me. Just to share ideas. One can't get much more complicated without having to write script. GUI only used here to make one .fcf file to run in Target GUI. One would of course need the proper keyboard settings. All Axis and curves are set in-game in DCS. Now if I could just land this thing 10 out of 10 times. *sigh* Tom Spitzipped May 2018.zip

The switch on the left is the fuel pump, the lever on the right below the fuel guage is fuel tank pressure. Page 129 states in the Pre-flight: "fuel tank booster valves must be in the OFF position" Page 142 section 8 clearly states: "Fuel boost valve must be set to off. Switch on only in response to the red light signaling a loss of fuel pressure (lower than 10lb/in²)" The main fuel valve is on for start. The fuel pump is on only when running and the booster gets put on when required (when the light is on). Not following the DCS spitfire manual will get you in trouble regardless of the real thing. Altitude is fun. I read this morning that a Spitfire went over 50,000 feet at one time. I turn it (fuel booster) on when the light is on. I never have any trouble and I fly hours a day and going over the mountains is part of my daily regime.

I trimmed all the way to the right and back until the P for port is on top. I trim the nose down just a touch. This worked back when I was using my old 3d pro Logitech. 2800 RPM and 9 boost works well eased into it. The instant the nose tilts left, move your stick to roll right back level. It actually took quite a while for me to get used to pedals. I could never go back now.

I have attached some blank templates in Excel and ODS formats to help speed up the process of making hardware profiles using the above. Only one modifier is all there was room for but it suits some of the warbirds just fine. Fast and easily editable from font to data. Tm Hotas Wartog and T160000M Blank Templates ODS Spreadsheets.zip

I decided to chain together 7 pulses for the Brake increase and 7 pulses for the brake decrease to apply the brakes on full and hold them there. No buttons end up in the Pressed on and held that way which eliminates some conflicts. Led1 is on while applied or if the switch is left forward and off when released. Pics attached of the GUI and Code.

I now apply brakes 4 different ways 1. Hold the grey button behind the lever on the joystick (hold). It applies and lets go. It is the easiest and best way other than an analog Lever which we don't have. So stop whining about cheaters and toe brakes. It is not the best method as I have just recently found. 2. Toe brakes. Old habits die hard and occasionally I use them. No apologies. It's my deal. 3. I set one switch to PRESS the w key constantly until told to release it by moving the switch back. (think wheel chocks). 4. I set a button to increase brakes a bit and the same button on an i shifted layer to decrease brakes a bit. I spent the day making LEDs work using only the Taget GUI which will not do everything but it does all I need so far. Make a copy of your script first. I had to revert to a 2 day old copy and I had to spend an hour getting my proper entries back. Back up first and often to different names. I made a quick video (45 minutes) to show how to set up the 5 LEDs for the TM wartog. Disclaimer: I am a basket case with a very bad memory so the commentary is not quite right at times. Regardless there is a lot of good information on how to use the Target GUI to get some LEDs working. DO not set up the backlight this way using the GUI. It requires more scripting by hand. DO NOT hit the intensity button which the GUI only writes code for the backlight and both the script manual mention that if you use a release the backlight using the GUI it causes trouble. in the GUI for the backlight it may mess things up. Comments in the video are disabled to avoid the "tube" ragers, complainers, hackers and trolls. I believe I had to do some trouble shooting in the last 20 minutes or so which is educational for sure. All LEDs worked properly in the end. I did another video to prove the concept in flight but my other cam battery died so it doesn't show my controllers. Oh well. It was a nice flight and I may upload that as well but I won't link to it here. How-to LED, click below. https://youtu.be/XAzsKdiRhXw

Thank you so much for the inspiration. I could find nothing on using the Target GUI to control LEDs other than the manual which is confusing and sparse on this issue but after reading that Scripting manual, I knew what code I wanted to reproduce. Since my thing is to always try to use a GUI when coding since my eyes are buggy and I hate spending days looking for a missing bracket. I have got the latest versions of Linux Mint down to never having to go to the command line as well although in the past it was necessary. It's just a me thing. For DCS I messed with a lot of combinations in the GUI for about a day and a half and then slept on it and then got up and got it done. I used to scold my staff if they even whispered the word "Can't". I could be easily to paste the code here but the coders have already got it figured out. This is for us layman non-coders. This is so we can just pick button options in the target GUI and have LEDs come on and off at will. Well I did some in my youth so it helps when I read it over for sure but this method makes all that unnecessary. I'll try and make a video how to shortly but I am no content creator but I'll post a link hopefully today. Many thanks to all the coders in here that post examples of their code. I'd be lost with out you. Truth.

I have changed it up significantly since I read all these posts. I now have 3 different kinds of brakes working. 1. A button to HOLD for applying which when let go releases the brakes. S3 button 2. A switch (Pinky)PSF & PSB that when thrown on HOLDS the brakes on full and turns on all LED lights and the backlight to warn that the "w" is held down. The lights go off and the W lets go any time the brakes are touched by the S3 or the Pinky switch is moved back to neutral or back and when the canopy is closed it automatically pulses the W to shut it and the lights off as well. Lights are controlled by S3 and or the pinky switch. 3. Toe brakes. Edit: 4 Increase brakes a bit and decrease are also mapped to buttons. The rest is self explanatory. If there is an I in front then the lever is held at the same time. I am going to try to upload the pics and the single .fcf Spit file for your perusal for ideas and how to. Your key bindings will not match but one could look in the file using the Target software. In the end I find using the joystick Button which is under the flap lever in my case and not the flap lever, seems to be the better way to go. I use pedals as well (analog) and the pseudo work around parking brake I devised in this script. The button/lever seems to be the best and so I would definitely not say someone using pedals is cheating. I have a lot of time on pedals and two missions with the button and I am better at taxiing with the brakes. The DCS Spitfire.fcf file is in the .zip if you are interested. edit:New edit fixed guns so pics are not totally accurate. One can print the template in Target GUI by opening the DCS Spitfire FCS there. Keybindings are not stock. NEVER use Ctl and c in the same string ever even if it is something like ctl-shift-c as in keybindings. Ctl_c being the old DOS break command that is still in use in the depths. If you are using ctl as a modifier or part of a keybind never use c with it. It took me minutes to figure it out. Being old and DOS literate finally came in handy. lol. Moving on to the 109. This one will do with possibilities of even doubling the number of key presses so far. Target. Never look back. DCS_Spitfire_04_26_2018_3.zip

If one was to scroll down to the 2.5.1 section on Warbirds It mentions Spits and drop tanks and bombs but is it saying it is actually completed and coming in that release? I remain hopeful. https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/news/2018-04-20_DCS2.5.1Update/

The 12 buttons on the base of the T.16000 can be increased to 72 by using layers with the Target software. The problem is it is difficult to hold two buttons on the top AND hit another button. It works fine when it is the only stick you have and you have 2 hands free. The beauty of it is, if it is included in a Target script for the Hotas Wartog, the lever on the wartog can be used to make the shifted layer. The U and D and M layers which are generally shifted via the flap switch on the wartog, can also be controlled via the wartog. Either way, I have determined that not only is the T.16000 a decent stick for the price. I find it has a worse sticktion problem than the Hotas Wartog but the price makes that easy to ignore. I'd buy another and probably will. The twist function could be handy as well. With or without Target, it's a handy stick. I set up three buttons to use all states here as a trial and an example.

I have been away for a few months since it got to be too much for my computer and I figured I'd wait for 2.5 to release rather than get all complicated running 3 versions. With a new GPU and another 16 gig Ram it was time. I rarely ever run with an fps monitor but I turned it on for a minute. 120 fps (with one wingman and one enemy) in Normandy with the settings on simply "High". Nice work folks!

IN answer to what do others do in the OP. Here are some ideas in the attached .jpgs. 3 aircraft in one file. M for spit, D for 109 U for P-51. Joystick Lever is a modifier and M U and D of the flap switch are the layers. One simple .fcf file to run is all. Loving it for the Spitfire.

I have 3 folders in saved games. Now that I am on 2.5, which 2 can I delete? DCS DCS.openalpha DCS.openbeta I moved the last 2 out and left the DCS one. I suspect it will work but it's not time to test yet(sipping coffee). <Edit> That's the ticket.

Understood of course. Thanks for pointing out the obvious. My point is that more and more a left hand stick is going to be appropriate in the interest of realism in some of the more modern aircraft. I thought I'd present this fact here and perhaps more control device manufacturers would take notice and give us more options.

I got my crosswinds about 1.5 years ago. The first hurdle was to stop the office chair from turning so I drilled and put a bolt through the shaft. I added some longer pieces of wood to brace it against the wall. It caused me grief for months but I loved the spring tension and the feel. The chair and the pedals were still rickety and wobbly and it was driving me nuts so I took the bull by the horns to tame the crosswind and make it solid. I have since done further mods to the left side of my sim pit, adding another stick over there and making a shelf that attaches to the bottom platform and slides in and out with same. It really is a rock solid wonderful setup. The wood was all repurposed from an old bench and the seat cost $35 at an auto wreckers and I had the casters in a pile. That was the second board. The first one was toxic press board. It is easy to roll in and out to clean or whatever. Rock solid! I can feel my rudder properly now.

Side sticks are becoming quite common in newer "civilian" aircraft for the record. Put your right hand in your pocket for a week. One adapts very quickly.

That is soo nice. Thanks. I keep watching those.

As for the brakes an update. I tried it on my slide but I much prefer my way. If an analog lever was on the actual joystick, it would be more comprehensive to use one analog lever for sure. I see the concept but I'll stick with having both my x and y bound to the analog brakes in axis.

Very cool. I will try that. I have my brakes set to something else like wheel brakes in the axis section or something. That change should help immensely. I am wondering about using an old joystick to give me more axis. I didn't realize they were even air brakes. Now we are in MY world. I can see a trip to my Local Supermarine Spitfire LF MK IX and get some more data on this system. It's an hour away. Perhaps next week. I ran across a pressure reducing valve a minute ago for sale in NZ. ha ha. Searches being what they are. I haven't run across a brake valve or actual pics of the rudder to braking system mechanicals. I need to know it all now. I ran across this interesting read which may not be new to many but there are a number of interesting paragraphs throughout regarding brakes. http://www.warbirdalley.com/articles/spitfire-flight-report.htm

I play SP almost always. I find if you add much to a mission in Normandy, it really affects performance. it is all being worked on and I am confident that eventually it will rock. No regrets here. I prefer the Caucasus or Nevada maps simply because I enjoy the hills and valleys represented. Normandy of course is relatively flat. I don't regret the purchase of any maps but I hope they improve on performance some how. I also prefer props although I own and Love an F-15 which gets almost no action anymore. You can set up some very cool scenarios in Nevada on the flat tops of some of those hills.

I never realized I was only getting 50% braking with the toe brake setup. I am not sure I need more but I certainly need to mess with that concept and try a few things. Thanks guys.