AeriaGloria

I think HUD is unfinished in less order video, doesn’t show PP when IRST gain is messed with and Tate circle, diamond, and waypoint distance are missing Yes, the diamond does not show target position, as in it fires not cover the target like in FC3. “It points to the target” only as in it’s a gimbal limit indicator, so if target is 20 degrees up and 30 degrees left, the forming is halfway up/left on the HUD. So that if you pull towards the symbol, you will eventually be pointed right at the target when the Diamond is in the center of the HUD. No symbol covers the target IRL. All up to pilot to get visual based on the gimbal indicator and the missile launch zone once they have radar lock, and gimbal indicator only with IRST lock. Gimbal limit indicator also only properly works when upright and level. For example let’s say I lock someone in front and turn right. You won’t see gimbal limit indicator drift down the HUD pointing towards the target, it will drift left. So you will need to be level for the gimbal limit indicator to properly point towards the target

That’s basically what I mean. IRST can do 60 degrees azimuth/elevation in FC3. IRL, it is limited to 30 degrees and only flanker gets full 60 degrees IRST

Or being able to see target speed and altitude Or having the locked target have a symbol on them so you can see where they are Or being able to change radar scale as you wish Or having the whole right side of the HUD, which is only on the HDD in the real one and FF It may be difficult to switch sensors as easily, and you only have one sensor pick up the lost lock of another if radar is locked to MPRF Not to mention the IRST has 2x the FOV it will have in the FF Ir the fact that we will need to wait 4 seconds to fire radar missiles if we lock inside missile range

In case you wanted to know everything and all the stats about the Soviet rockets we have and which ones are best for what

FC3 does this wrong. IRL and likely in FF your radar gimbal will be represented by the diamond, left side of HUD 70 degrees left and right side is 70 degrees right. so when it reaches the side then you know you’re at cranking limit, only problem is that unlike FC3 there won’t be a right border to the HUD only on HDD. So you can either look at HDD for left crank or estimate the right HUD border by when the diamond is at the numbers of the artificial horizon

You might be surprised how the avionics and HUD for the FC3 model are completely wrong. But yes I agree, with this RSBN correction nav system modeled, you could basically copy and paste the basic functionality to Su-25, Su-27, etc ER is in the trailer and many pre release photos

Oh no please buy it! We need to tell them that there is demand for red modules! MiG-29 “A” should still be a worthy fast attack jet especially if there is access to RSBN correction on many maps. Set you waypoints to IP and target, we can carry S-8 or S-24 with it which is very powerful or bombs. And you can do wind/moving target correction by designating the target first then aiming after 2 seconds!!! That should give us some versatility we don’t have in FC3 to make those rocket and cannon runs extra accurate!!!!

I would be very interested if there are any sources you have access too that give gun accuracy. The aircraft weapon manual described here gives much smaller values then the DCS MiG-15 of 12 mil dispersion for 1 km for 23mm and and 8.3/6.7 mil for 1 km for the HE/AP 37mm rounds, both for 100% circle or MOA. Along with different tracer burn times and ammo mixes. If the link for it does not work I can help. I look forward to a 37mm that is properly accurate and a 23mm that is properly spray and pray, though I do understand if the slightly longer barrel of the MiG-17 NR-23 makes a small improvement in its accuracy.

Which part? The S-21, S-24, or both? Какая часть? S-21, S-24 или обе?

Radar and KOLS range is very close right now. The biggest issue is their interaction and the way the systems operate.

Yes I never use it either, but sometimes it seems there is some ghost input putting it on! It seems OP’s problem was solved. Are you turning on your route channel within the Doppler limits of +/-7 degrees pitch or 30 degrees roll? 50-300 kmh? Usually you can’t use it above 260-289 kmh becuase you need such a negative pitch angle it disables the Doppler

The “F” key toggles the Collective brake. The collective brake will disable the altitude hold. It has been a bug occasionally that the collective brake seems to accidentally be on sometimes and prevent use of the altitude hold.

Hello, I have encountered two things I see repeated in a few places that would be very fun for the module! Most common, I see late MiG-17F fighter bomber squadrons being modified to fire S-24 and needing to stiffen the rear shock absorbers to increase ground clearance. This would be a very fun weapon for such a small and spunky aircraft! Two, I found a mention that S-21 was designed with MiG-17F in mind, and that the sight would program the fuse to detonate at the range the sight was at to, making it an extremely potent anti bomber/large aircraft weapon. Saying the weapon could explode 15m from a bomber and still be expected to mission kill it.

Have you pressed “F”?

The hover button is very finicky! 1. It will try to stabilize you over a particular spot, so you need to only turn it on once you are already in a hover! 2. Just like route mode, since it uses Doppler, it is turned off as soon as you exceed Doppler limits (7 degrees pitch or 30 degrees roll). Now, normally you hover at 3.5 degrees nose up. So what happens if you have any forward speed and press hover button? The hover mode commands nose up to get you to go back to the spot you turned it on over, you exceed the 7 degrees pitch Doppler limit, and it turns off. Add things like tail winds, needing to back up, and it might turn off a lot, so you might need to keep turning it back on! And just like route mode, if it turns off on its own, its last command is “saved” in the autopilot and will interfere with you. So when you are actually done with it you NEED to press the “OFF” button or it will keep messing you up for the rest of your flight. Sometimes it can be a nice crutch to turn on the hover mode before takeoff and have it help you takeoff straight, then turn it off as you start building speed!

Hello Chops, I made a guide for the autopilot, in there there is a chapter where I go through every single special options settings, it might be able to help, if not I can answer any questions https://drive.google.com/file/d/157HdRauUQO8rUJypKMnWrOktTjWqyMBE/view?usp=drivesdk Here is what I would recommend based off your screenshot 1. Turn “Pedal auto move” off, this gives heading hold more authority by trimming your pedals, but often causes control issues especially when heading hold is accidentally activated and you lose overall authority from pedals being trimmed. The normal 18% authority is usually plenty for heading hold to get you from point A to point B 2. Turn “Microswitch logic” either to “disable by return pedals to center” or “automatic off.” But really, what I honestly recommend after all my years is to go “automatic off” and bind “microswitch toggle,” and use this as your “heading hold” button. Just when you start up, turn on your auto pilot, also press your “microswitch toggle,” this will put the put the yaw autopilot into a mode that is helping you fly smooth but not holding heading. Then when you want to activate heading hold just press microswitch toggle and once again to turn it off. Know how each autopilot channel has a dial? If you are having trouble conforming if your heading hold is active or not, move the dial and if it moves the needle in the window above it then heading hold is active! Or if you have R control + enter window open, and if the left most AP window is fighting your turn, then you know heading hold is on. You can do the same thing without R control + enter display by looking at the same AP windows by your left knee. To be honest though, I almost always fly heading hold with microswitch pressed (heading hold off), becuase if you want to fly from point A to B hands off you know what’s even better? Route mode! On top of autopilot panel you have buttons route mode, hover button, etc. Route mode will only work when Doppler is active (it has pitch limits of +/-7 degrees and roll limits of +/-30 degrees), but becuase it uses Doppler that means it corrects for wind! It’s a little more work then heading hold, you have to set your heading with a dial to the left of the autopilot panel. But it will compensate for wind PERFECTLY! Just make sure when you’re done using it to press the “OFF” button next to it, becuase even if it turns off automatically from exceeding Doppler limits it’s last inputs will be “saved” in the autopilot and mess you up. If you instead choose the “disable microswitch by moving pedals to center,” I would recommend to only turn on Yaw AP when you want heading hold and turn it off when you’re done! Becuase if you leave it on in this mode it can accidentally turn on or off at the wrong time and interfere. Let me know if there’s anything else you want to know!

Jojojung is correct, I believe you are mixing up two different types of “dampeners” Zero_Crash Yes. There is the “SDV-500-OA” which is a literal hydraulic dampener, it is not advanced or smart in any way but only slowing down any movement of the pedals from center to full to 3 seconds and being able to be filled by the autopilot to move the pedals on their own if your settings are set that way. And yes it’s turned off with the red guard. But if you turn Yaw AP on and press microswitch there is still a dampening/stabilization function in the autopilot that is completely separate. This function works off not fighting yaw rate, but changes in yaw rate. So if I turn left, it will “dampen/fight/stabilize” the initial turn to the left, but as the turn to the left stabilizes it will go back to neutral. You can see this work in the simulator by using R control + enter and looking at the yaw window with yaw autopilot on and microswitch pressed. It will move the channel 20% for every deg/s/s of acceleration, just like how the channel moves 20% for every deg/s of acceleration in normal heading hold. Becuase of confusion of these two “dampeners,” I have tried to shy away from calling it such and say “stabilization” mode, which some real life sources say as well. This “stabilization” law that is active with Yaw AP while microswitch is pressed was added after Dutch roll issues reared their ugly head, , so it was meant to make that and all high speed flight much smoother In addition, the Trim hat is connected to the Mi-24 AP! When you press and release trim 2 things happen, it not only resets the deflection of the attitude holds, but there is a second autopilot law that it inherits from Mi-8: the autopilot will deflect the attitude holds in the same direction the stick moves to not fight the pilot and reduce the need for re trimming! You can see this on the ground, move the cyclic with R control + enter and you will see the autopilot channels follow your cyclic! This is why having autopilot on can actually INCREASE your control authority to an extent! However, to do this, it needs to know where “center” is. Oh Mi-8, it just took wherever your stick was when you turned it on, same as for attitude holds. So for Mi-24, your trim is resetting the attitude hold and where “center” is, so if you’re cyclic was previously commanding any autopilot deflection it goes away after pressing trim. When you press hat trim, it is also telling the autopilot to move this “center” but NOT moving the attitude holds. So it’s a sort of half measure and why of course in the end nothing can replace re trimming. You can see all this work on the ground. Move your cyclic right, you will see roll autopilot deflect right. Hold it there. Hold right hat trim, you will see the roll autopilot steadily go back to center as your “center” is moving right.

Dogon is just the MPRF mode every MiG-29 has. You are referring to “SP” or “Free Space” mode where targets where plotted by azimuth-velocity, and was supposedly so disliked by Soviet MiG-29 crews it was removed after 2-3 batches, thus you won’t see any pictures with it really.

What evidence is there of that? All I know is that both 9.12 and 9.12A use Parol-2D. 9.12B is using more similar to Kremnij-2M of MiG-21/23 with 8BK code selector. In addition, differences between 9.12 and 9.12A are that 9.12A is using N-019E and export version of KOLS, though both are supposed to have identical performance to their domestic counterparts. In addition the 9.12A is missing Cipher 4-15 on its Datalink panel, which means it cannot connect to any Beryuza datalink ground stations, thus limiting them to Lazur/Vozduch-1M.

It seemed to me that Flappie just labeled in an easy to misunderstand way, and really meant diameter even though the mark is only for radius on the picture. Likely because they measured radius then doubled it to get the correct measurement.

Ah, makes sense! So it is diameter!

Interesting! That does explain why Petro can acquire so much despite using narrow, I had no idea it was using 7.33/22 degrees as a radius and not diameter. The manual does warn of the sight being blocked in a left hand turn while looking left, so if it was half that I guess it wouldn’t be so true. The sources we have don’t indicate if this number is radius or diameter at all

I mean we know for a fact the narrow FOV is 7.33 degrees and the wide 22. Shouldn’t be hard to verify those.

Yes it did. But not 9.12A. I know we both wish it was a domestic model Anyways That is what Cipher #4-15 is for (Beryuza). 1-3 is for Lazur-M. These pictures are for 9.12A and 9.13 but should also apply to 9.12 and 9.12A The Cipher number correlates to number of groups/fighters that can be sent at once to one target, so 3x per target is Lazur limit and Beryuza 12. One graph here shows 13 for Cipher of Lazur-M, but I think it’s mistranslation of 1-3. Im sure this is why if you look at pictures of domestic 9.12/9.13, they often have their cipher knob at 4, becuase they using the more advanced Beryuza system. For some reason they must not have wanted to export Beryuza, or knew that customers wouldn’t have the required ground stations. A lot of 9.12 I’ve seen seem to have the Cipher knob at 4 so that they are in “Beryuza” mode.

The knobs are mechanically connected to the movement of the reticule, so if CCIP causes the reticule to move, the knobs will also move. Only in manual mode the serves that move them are disconnected. Option A 1. Turn switch from ASYNC to SYNC 2. Put pipper on moving target 3. After 2-3 seconds, pipper will lag 4. Re align pipper with target, and its motion will be compensated Option B (my preference) 1. Turn switch from ASYNC to SYNC 2. Follow target with some lead. If moving left to right put them on left side of side. If moving down to up put them on bottom of sight. 3. Sight will begin to lag, but since you were already leading the target slightly this will mean a smaller correction is needed to “re align the pipper with target.” If you have flown a gyro sight in something like MiG-15/19/21, it is same logic, completely based on distance and angular movement. So since Option B requires less maneuvering to re align pipper after it begins to lag, it not only allows faster targeting because less movement is necessary but because the increased turn rate to re align the pipper with target won’t cause such a large difference for the pipper. I have been using the function to lead low flying helicopters, and it works very well! Just need to be aware that since more distance equals more correction needed, the pipper will be extremely jumpy at the max 3-3.5 km range of the sight. Once you get closer, it will both jump less and take less time to “settle,” just like how a gyro sight in a MiG-15/19/21 will jump less and settle faster at close range rather then long.