Bob_Bushman

The price for the Pimax's aren't the main issue. Yes higher than I would have liked, but that just means I'm happy I pledged for the kickstarter, albeit I'm the mid 4k's ... It's also highly probable that HTC also have to charge as much as they do for the pro just to make a buck, sadly they didn't bother upgrading lenses, and the lenses is the main reason why I use the rift, and the vive is boxed up. Pimax's biggest problem is their own bullshit. Particularly around hardware requirements, for the longest time they kept saying all that was needed was a 1070. That might scratch by in fruit ninja or beat saber. Anything more than that and, well you would want a 2080ti just to feed the 5k+. And the 8kx won't be feasible as a device for another five GPU generations. Unless you only want to play fruit ninja, or watch VR porn..

Yeah but they are also nearly twice the price.

Also upgraded from CH and and the difference was honestly a bit staggering. Contactless sensors aren't really the biggest difference it also relies heavily on the mechanics involved as well. One major feature for these are also the customisation you can achieve, hard center, soft center, no center ? All quite easily configured by chosing a set of cam's. And combine that with switching out some springs you can get them just perfect to how you like it. Also the on center performance on my virpil is staggering. No deadzone, no curves needed. Yeah, getting pedals stationary is a must, they would be utterly unusable if they keep moving under your feet. They either need to be fixed to something or pushing against something.

The status goes yellow if anything has changed, at all, in the software compared to what was loaded from the device. So it pretty much is only green immediately after you load device settings. In other words it simply means thst you have changes made between what was loaded and what is set in the software.

They already do that for the Huey operator and Pilot. Even if you are flying as the pilot, and get killed by a bullet the game switches you to the operator seat while you can see yourself slumped over. And it won't let you switch back.

Delete the duplicate key bindings I assume.

I really don't see the problem of extension on the warbrd, there are plenty of users out there prepared to do their own mounting. Anyone willing to spend this much on a flightstick should also have the ambition of doing a proper placement, and adding a long curved extension for center pit based mounting should really not hurt. Only thing it could bump into in such an install would be my knees, and I'm sure those are incapable of damaging the grip :P

I simply use the head movement as a rough control to get the cursor to where I need it, then the mouse only needs a tiny adjustment to find the button. Faster than anything else imo, and when I don't need it anymore I push it out of the way.

I have so far felt the need to contact virpil support twice. Each time they have responded no later than next working day. Second time I fired off an email late Friday afternoon. I had a reply before noon Monday. That was slight technical issue as well. Actually it was user error on my side that was promptly sorted once I realised.

Pro: Huge image, increasing immersion and amazing gaming experience. Also movies, can't beat a decent projector when it comes to movies. Con: Noise, those fans will blow ALL the time. Contrast and light control, you will want to be able to completely black out your space. Any light, any LED will impact the image. And we aren't talking about a set of curtains, maybe just maybe two sets of black out curtains would be ok. I had to cover my PS4 controller with electrical tape just to be able to stomach using the ps4. That LED on it's lowest setting was enough to begin washing out the image. Of course it depends on how finicky one chooses to be, I am fairly 'out there' I admit. Setup needs to be exact, practically 1mm one way or the other will change focus on one side of the screen or push image out of screen. There is a reason why I have mine mounted with $300 ceiling mount, it was worth it. If I was to compare, setting up a projector and screen is easily 3-4x times the work and effort of wall mounting a TV. Granted the projector in question here is a short-throw unit, this could simplify the process a lot, but comes at other detriments. Cost, not just for the unit. But in running. Those lamps, and you won't find laser or LED equivalents under $5k still that performs well enough for gaming or movies. And a lamp will easily cost $200-$400, yes you can find cheaper on ali-baba etc but these are often knock-offs that burn differently and at higher temps than the original. First means colours will never be right, and the second kills your projector. Many have lost a $1k trying to save $80. Also a thing to note, all cheaper DLP's including this ACER are single-chip DLP based units using a spinning colour wheel that introduces artefacts many are sensitive too, for some that means the image is constantly flickering or they just simply get a massive headache watching the image. This is not a small percentage either, I believe out of ten guys, three would get headaches and another two if not more would see the artefacts and flickering. And I suspect gamers might even be more prone to this since they are trained to spot frame by frame differences. Only way to know is to go test at a shop or a buddy who has one, and give it some time. And as for Immersion imo, no large tv or projector will ever compete with VR. I have at my personal disposal a 34" ultrawide monitor, a 65" UHD TV, and a 100" Sony HW50 projection setup. Id pick my rift over all of them every time for simming. And it was the cheapest of them all. Still. Projectors are awesome.

This is "The DCS spotting issue" and there many many threads and youtube videos out there and it just simply scales oddly in DCS seemingly related to FOV and resolution. It's not a VR only issue.

Well I currently don't have eject bound to anything. But it's working like a charm as a dump button so far :)

Yes. All in the virpil software, do not use windows calibration. Do step 1 and load your device. Go down and click "import profile from file", there should be three files for each of the three grips. Delta, MT50, or TMW for what I presume is short for ThrustMaster Warthog grip. open that in the pop up dialog. Click the "save device profile" button and reload again it with the newly applied profile. Run through the virpil "Calibrate axes" and save device again. This last step has caught me out on an occasion since it seems it doesn't report correctly until you have saved the profile to your device and loaded back in from the stick, same after a calibration. On the latest software version you might get an incompatible firmware warning first so just run in the newer one.

It's your dump button. You don't want to accidentally dump your stores, and you want to be able to find it quick and securely in a condition when this means being able salvage an aircraft or not. I don't see any problems with it. As for toggles I still got a few of those on my left ;)

Forums tend to be there for users to help users or throwing ideas around. When I have contacted Virpil support I have so far gotten a reply next working day.

I quite like it as is, not that you are wrong. But with the warthog toggles where they work like hold and press switches you wither need heave Lua editing or TARGET scripts so you won't have to flick each switch twice to say toggle the landing gears. As the throttle sends a button 32 pulse on either up or down state it will easily work as a toggle. On the warthog I would have to manually go into the lua controll file and manually add events for both button down and release to create similar behaviour.

The clutch system sounds intriguing, especially since my main module is the huey and other helicopters. As for the grip: The grip might look the same, but it sounds significantly different in a few features and a fair more buttons. I honestly suspect the current virpil mongoose grip was designed to function on the warthog gimbal, and therefore limited in number if buttons and axes. I was entertaining the idea of a twin stick to say setup so should be able find good use for the virpil still.

VKB tend to do batches. They should post when to expect stock and you would wait and place an order then. I can't really say why, but I hit the pre-order button for a gunfighter MCG-pro combo this week. Even though I honestly can't find a single flaw with the T-50.. As a general response to this query of getting a HOTAS. I think in the strictest terms. I would be vary of actually recommending anyone get anything much more expensive than the T16000m, it is simply plenty good enough and doesn't break most budgets. And it's a good stick, I find it a bit tough to recommend the Saitek\Logitech (S\L) options since they simply feel a bit outdated these days in terms of precision. CH is about the same but with less QA issues than the S\L offerings, well at least they used to. But their pots are starting to show their age in terms of noise and precision. So in a nuthsell I would say: The t16000m HOTAS is good. Warthog is great. Virpil is great+ VKB is great+(+?), with their top grip\gimbal which I expect is one step above the virpil again. A solution from these would easily cost more than twice that of a warthog HOTAS. So I might consider it a bit insane, I personally find sanity overrated though, but I have always been a bit off.

Virpil and VKB are indeed a very serious business. Any support request I have filed with regarding potential purchases or support after a purchase has been responded to with competence and courtesy. Not some first line highschooler with a sheet of questions. They are just small, make high quality products at high tolerances and that takes a bit of time. And developing products like these take time. Take the virpil throttle, it wasn't fully out of development until August or late September. And people have been ordering them since last year almost. Naturally they have had a lot of orders to fill. Personally I have a barely three moth warthog throttle and I received my Virpil a week or so ago after a three month wait. It was twice as expensive as the hog throttle in the end. And. It was worth it. Worth the price. Worth the wait. That's my nickel at least. It's even more precise than the warthog throttle even though it has a slightly shorter throw. The buttons are easier to access, the hogs handles almost oclude half of them depending on its position. And you got more of them. Its as if you got a good button box with a set of analog knobs and encoders on top of your throttle and those you will have to either diy or cost you €200+. The joystick is about the same and the opposite of the warthog, ABS plastic on the grip machined dura-aluminum on the inside. Thrustamers is thin metal casing around the grip with plastic gimbals, budget wiring. I normally fly mostly helicopters and with this gimbal I need neither curves or deadzones at all. The motion and registration around center is perfect, no notches, no stiction. And if you desire different centering feel and force, switch the cams and springs and with effort you can get it just right. It took me a few weeks to get there and I dissassembled my gimbal at least three times but the result is as close to perfection I think would be possible.

I was flying with a buddy who needed to swap out an ice pack for his shoulder every 40 minutes or so. After I convinced him to get some table mounts he hasn't needed another ice pack even playing 8+ hours. Getting the sticks lower also completely removes the sense that your hands might not be large enough to reach all buttons and hats. Getting the right angle on things pretty much completely changes the experience. I don't own either mounts, instead I'm using a dig solution of mostly 2×4" and wooden shelf boards stuck to a corner, with it I am getting it just right and probably haven't spent more than $50. A potential problem is doing changes wiuldninvolve breaking out a drill/screwdriver or even the handsaw.

Granted I only pre-ordered a gunfighter yesterday morning so won't be testing it until mid January, but from what I gather that's exactly how the 'trimmer' hat works on the gunfighter pro. You push the trim say pitch down 30%, and the sticks output stays where you set it until you reset by clicking the hat as a button. Long press the same and the stick should switch the hat to a regular POV button mode. So it can be bound to the regular binary trim settings. *edit in italics.

You have to bind commands in game as the game allows. There is no way around that. And a lot of modules in DCS simply doesn't have analog trim.

Aye. seconded. ED's automatically assigned binds are a complete pain. Please stop.

Well. I thought the encoders and rotaries on the throttle was meant for radios and cockpit lighting. May I be a nosy nelly and query as to what levers you are using or how you constructed them? Closest I have seen seemingly out of the box are the sliding pots on sparkfun and of course they just slide.

Why not just post the model files themselves so we can print them out for our amusement ? :D