DTWD Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 Hello, Does anyone know of a mod for the after burner detent to change it from a lift in and out to more of a bump? I want to get to the gate and be able to push through it with enough force instead of having to lift, but still know I am about to light the fires. I find the lift in and out at the beginning fine, but the AB one seems really difficult, certainly something I can't do subconsciously and have to concentrate. Regards [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
G00dnight Posted November 3, 2014 Posted November 3, 2014 what i did' take out enter bit between throttles.. remove the plastic bit that gives you either AB or noAB. take a craft knife and trim a little at a time off the step for AB till it just gives you a hump at AB position. BEAR IN MIND THIS WILL INVALIDATE YOUR WARANTEE but who cares. I have a nice push upto AB pos then a small bump into AB. simples.. 1 AMD A8-5600K @ 4GHz, Radeon 7970 6Gig, 16 Gig Ram, Win 10 , 250 gig SSD, 40" Screen + 22 inch below, Track Ir, TMWH, Saitek combat pedals & a loose nut behind the stick :thumbup:
Sarge55 Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 I did what GOOdnight did and it works great. Just to re-emphasis just a very little bit at a time. If you do go too far I think you can order a new one from TM. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] i7 10700K OC 5.1GHZ / 500GB SSD & 1TB M:2 & 4TB HDD / MSI Gaming MB / GTX 1080 / 32GB RAM / Win 10 / TrackIR 4 Pro / CH Pedals / TM Warthog
Wick Posted November 4, 2014 Posted November 4, 2014 what i did' take out enter bit between throttles.. remove the plastic bit that gives you either AB or noAB. take a craft knife and trim a little at a time off the step for AB till it just gives you a hump at AB position. BEAR IN MIND THIS WILL INVALIDATE YOUR WARANTEE but who cares. I have a nice push upto AB pos then a small bump into AB. simples.. Hi sarge or G00dnight, any chance you could post a quick pic of your 'afterburner detent bit'? I'm too chicken to start cutting or filing. Need an example. 1 System spec: Asus P9X79, Intel 3930K @ 4.6; GeForce GTX 680 4gb; G.Skill 16 Gb (2x8Gb) DDR3 dual channel @ 1800mhz; Corsair H100; Corsair SSD; Cooler Master 1200W SilentPro Gold (80+). HOTAS Warthog, Helios, SoftTH, CougarMFD, Dell Multitouch, LG 27", LG 42. --------------------------------------------------------
DTWD Posted November 4, 2014 Author Posted November 4, 2014 Cheers for the posts chaps. A picture would be helpful. Are we talking about the red part, or the whole slot in piece? Regards [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
*Rage* Posted November 8, 2014 Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) Good idea! but does it calibrate with DCS so the AB lights when the detent is reached? Edit: with my WH throttle the detent is reached before AB in the 27 and F15. Easily sorted with a curve though. Edited November 8, 2014 by ///Rage 1 [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] 64th "Scorpions" Aggressor Squadron Discord: 64th Aggressor Squadron TS: 195.201.110.22
Sarge55 Posted November 10, 2014 Posted November 10, 2014 I just fly the A10C and the Su-25T in DCS so can't comment on the AB calibration with the F 15 etc... I modified mine for Falcon BMS, you can set the AB detent in Falcon. Something DCS should look into especially with the eventual release of the F 18C... Attached is a photo of the area to trim... Remember just a little at a time equally on each side of the red guide. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] i7 10700K OC 5.1GHZ / 500GB SSD & 1TB M:2 & 4TB HDD / MSI Gaming MB / GTX 1080 / 32GB RAM / Win 10 / TrackIR 4 Pro / CH Pedals / TM Warthog
bunraku Posted January 21, 2016 Posted January 21, 2016 Hi I can't feel any resistance or bump pushing forward, but like the original poster can feel it going backwards. When I have my throttles fully forward they are hard up against the top of the groove so I can't see how lifting them would make any difference?
Cowboy10uk Posted January 23, 2016 Posted January 23, 2016 Hi I can't feel any resistance or bump pushing forward, but like the original poster can feel it going backwards. When I have my throttles fully forward they are hard up against the top of the groove so I can't see how lifting them would make any difference? Turn the throttle stop around inside the Throttle. It has two settings, throttle stop at AB with a lift to go into AB and push to the wall, which is the one the majority of us would be used to after setting up the throttle for the A10. You should see two Allen screws on the top of your throttle to allow you to change it. Cowboy10uk [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Fighter pilots make movies, Attack pilots make history, Helicopter pilots make heros. :pilotfly: Corsair 570x Crystal Case, Intel 8700K O/clocked to 4.8ghz, 32GB Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4 3200 MHZ Ram, 2 x 1TB M2 drives, 2 x 4TB Hard Drives, Nvidia EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW, Maximus x Hero MB, H150i Cooler, 6 x Corsair LL120 RGB Fans And a bloody awful Pilot :doh:
bunraku Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Turn the throttle stop around inside the Throttle. It has two settings, throttle stop at AB with a lift to go into AB and push to the wall, which is the one the majority of us would be used to after setting up the throttle for the A10. You should see two Allen screws on the top of your throttle to allow you to change it. Cowboy10uk Hi If I am just flying A-10 I don't need to do this right? Only if flying jets too?
Cowboy10uk Posted January 24, 2016 Posted January 24, 2016 Nope you only need the AB Detent if you're flying jets with Afterburner Cowboy10uk [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Fighter pilots make movies, Attack pilots make history, Helicopter pilots make heros. :pilotfly: Corsair 570x Crystal Case, Intel 8700K O/clocked to 4.8ghz, 32GB Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4 3200 MHZ Ram, 2 x 1TB M2 drives, 2 x 4TB Hard Drives, Nvidia EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW, Maximus x Hero MB, H150i Cooler, 6 x Corsair LL120 RGB Fans And a bloody awful Pilot :doh:
some1 Posted February 10, 2016 Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) I did a non-intrusive modification two months ago that serves the same purpose. Instead of cutting the original part I glued a few pieces of a round, wooden toothpick on the other side. The new part stops the throttles, but when you push them, they slide on top of it. This way I have all three options available: - The original pull-up to get past detent and engage afterburner - The modified push-through operation if I rotate the part 180 degrees. - No AB detent if I remove the part completely. The good thing is you can customize it later by adding or removing more toothpick pieces. Edited February 10, 2016 by some1 Hardware: VPForce Rhino, FSSB R3 Ultra, Virpil WarBRD, Hotas Warthog, Winwing F15EX, Slaw Rudder, GVL224 Trio Throttle, Thrustmaster MFDs, Saitek Trim wheel, Trackir 5, Quest Pro
cro_mig_21 Posted February 13, 2016 Posted February 13, 2016 just want to hop in and say what GOOdnight suggested...with a little exacto knife trimming the plug worked like a charm for me! Thanx a lot!
Davee Posted February 14, 2016 Posted February 14, 2016 just want to hop in and say what GOOdnight suggested...with a little exacto knife trimming the plug worked like a charm for me! Thanx a lot! Yup, for me also. Just using the exacto knife to "shave" the edge carefully. I did one side at a time until I got it right on the first one them proceeded with the second side.
blackasdf Posted April 14, 2016 Posted April 14, 2016 I did a non-intrusive modification two months ago that serves the same purpose. Instead of cutting the original part I glued a few pieces of a round, wooden toothpick on the other side. The new part stops the throttles, but when you push them, they slide on top of it. This way I have all three options available: - The original pull-up to get past detent and engage afterburner - The modified push-through operation if I rotate the part 180 degrees. - No AB detent if I remove the part completely. The good thing is you can customize it later by adding or removing more toothpick pieces. I know this is an old but, just wanted to say thank you because your solution works great and it's perfect.
some1 Posted April 15, 2016 Posted April 15, 2016 Hey, thanks, glad you used it :) Hardware: VPForce Rhino, FSSB R3 Ultra, Virpil WarBRD, Hotas Warthog, Winwing F15EX, Slaw Rudder, GVL224 Trio Throttle, Thrustmaster MFDs, Saitek Trim wheel, Trackir 5, Quest Pro
QuiGon Posted April 15, 2016 Posted April 15, 2016 Hi If I am just flying A-10 I don't need to do this right? Only if flying jets too? The A-10 has no afterburner, so you won't need it at all. But even for flying jets with afterburner (not all jets have afterburners) it's not really necessary. It just improves the throttle handling, because you know exactly when you activate the afterburner. Intel i7-12700K @ 8x5GHz+4x3.8GHz + 32 GB DDR5 RAM + Nvidia Geforce RTX 2080 (8 GB VRAM) + M.2 SSD + Windows 10 64Bit DCS Panavia Tornado (IDS) really needs to be a thing!
rrohde Posted April 22, 2016 Posted April 22, 2016 The A-10 has no afterburner, so you won't need it at all. But even for flying jets with afterburner (not all jets have afterburners) it's not really necessary. It just improves the throttle handling, because you know exactly when you activate the afterburner. Does that mean that the afterburner for all DCS jets that have it kicks in at the same throttle position (whether it's the Mirage, F-15 or Su-27) with that detent in place? PC: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X | MSI Suprim GeForce 3090 TI | ASUS Prime X570-P | 128GB DDR4 3600 RAM | 2TB Samsung 870 EVO SSD | Win10 Pro 64bit Gear: HP Reverb G2 | JetPad FSE | VKB Gunfighter Pro Mk.III w/ MCG Ultimate VKBcontrollers.com
some1 Posted April 23, 2016 Posted April 23, 2016 (edited) No, it's a mess, every developer sets the detent in a different place, and you have to adjust the curves (either in the profiler or in DCS) to match that. There's no easy interface for configuring afterburner position like it is in Falcon 4.0, it's trial and error using curve editor. Edited April 23, 2016 by some1 Hardware: VPForce Rhino, FSSB R3 Ultra, Virpil WarBRD, Hotas Warthog, Winwing F15EX, Slaw Rudder, GVL224 Trio Throttle, Thrustmaster MFDs, Saitek Trim wheel, Trackir 5, Quest Pro
rrohde Posted April 23, 2016 Posted April 23, 2016 Thanks for the info, some1! PC: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X | MSI Suprim GeForce 3090 TI | ASUS Prime X570-P | 128GB DDR4 3600 RAM | 2TB Samsung 870 EVO SSD | Win10 Pro 64bit Gear: HP Reverb G2 | JetPad FSE | VKB Gunfighter Pro Mk.III w/ MCG Ultimate VKBcontrollers.com
f4l0 Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 I just found this thread, it would be nice to have a solution which will work without 'opening' the throttle. Something with a screw or something... Maybe a talented 3d printing artist can create such piece ;) f4l0 Developer of Simshaker for Aviators Feel the brrrrttt: [Official] SimShaker for Aviators Forums thread at ED forums SimShaker for Aviators (simshaker-for-aviators.github.io)
some1 Posted August 11, 2016 Posted August 11, 2016 Not sure what do you mean, the original detent is designed so that you don't have to "open" the throttle, just unscrew the plastic part between the throttles (you don't have to screw it back, it sits firmly in place by itself). Hardware: VPForce Rhino, FSSB R3 Ultra, Virpil WarBRD, Hotas Warthog, Winwing F15EX, Slaw Rudder, GVL224 Trio Throttle, Thrustmaster MFDs, Saitek Trim wheel, Trackir 5, Quest Pro
TwoLate Posted August 13, 2016 Posted August 13, 2016 I just fly the A10C and the Su-25T in DCS so can't comment on the AB calibration with the F 15 etc... I modified mine for Falcon BMS, you can set the AB detent in Falcon. Something DCS should look into especially with the eventual release of the F 18C... Attached is a photo of the area to trim... Remember just a little at a time equally on each side of the red guide. Works great for me thanks. Rep to you. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
escaner Posted August 21, 2016 Posted August 21, 2016 Great mod. :) I could not use the original detent because the whole set would lift! Initially I went with the toothpic one to try and then replaced them with a piece of plastic. Much smoother now in the afterburner range. Here is my detent-piece. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
strikers_blade Posted September 28, 2016 Posted September 28, 2016 On this same topic, are there any shop/company out there selling a detent replacement? Having a 3D printer would take care of the problem but it is not an option for me right now. My systems: Windows 10 64 bits I7-8700k 32.0 GB RAM 500Gb SSD Asus ROG 2080ti HP Reverb Windows 10 64 bits I7-6820HQ CPU @ 2.70Ghz 32.0 GB RAM 500Gb SSD Nvidia Quadro M4000M TrackIR 5
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