peachmonkey

can anyone possibly let me know where I can find the .lua files and their name(s) for belt composition in P47? I'd like to change them for the SP to have a more realistic effect on dog fights. Thank you in advance, guys.

You can still get a G2, you just won't be able to run it a full resolution with 1080. There's no need to downgrade the HMD because of the graphics card. However, you'd need at least a 2080ti to run G2 at a decent resolution on your CPU (which isn't that potent anymore either). Search ebay fo 2080ti pre-owned, maybe you can find a decent deal.

I was going to recommend Varjo Aero, but seeing it's double your budget in AUS that's definitely a non starter. For DCS it's the top VR headset in the realm of picture clarity due to its unique lens design, there are no glares, no godrays, and the picture is clear across the whole lens, i.e. the sweet spot is the 100% of the lens. Next 3 down would be: - HP G2: the good: inside-out tracking, no need for base station. Has VERY good motion smoothing feature, almost without artifacts. Excellent for the VR beginners. the bad: Pretty narrow horizontal FOV (90degrees). it's using WMR from Microsoft. Deep integration with Windows OS (10/11), which has its pro's/con's. Generally, it's a stable environment, however sometimes it goes haywire due to MS updates. picture quality (subjective opinion only a bit less resolution than HTC vivepro2 (below), the screen to me looks artificially smooth, i.e. they're using some sort of a film to reduce the screen-door effect, and it feels a bit 'greasy'. Sweet spot is pretty small. - HTC VivePro2 the good: not part of the Windows OS, has its own ecosystem, easy to troubleshoot. Has a much wider horizontal FOV, 104-110 degrees, depending on the application. the bad: requires Base Stations, which is an extra expense (however the stations are more or less future proof and are treated as "standard" and supported by other VR HMD manufacturers). Has a pretty atrocious motion smoothing full of artifacts, however it has some other inherent reprojection mode in it that smoothes the motion, albeit with lots of ghosting. picture quality (subjective opinion only a bit higher resolution than G2. Sweet spot is pretty small. No "film" on the screen, so you can see the individual pixels (if you focus hard enough). - Quest2: the good: cheap, inside-out tracking the bad: it's from Facebook. Did I mention it's from Facebook? So you need an active FB account to use this headset. The headset is stand-alone by itself (can play mobile games on it), so in order to run it on PC you gotta use a special "Link" cable, and bunch of other software. the picture: has less resolution than G2. I don't know anything else about it as i've never actually tried it It being from FB was enough of a deterrent, however it's the cheapest HMD to get yourself in to VR with at a decent 'quality', but the experience varies.

I guess I'm going by Chuck's guide and ED's guide. Both state 2800 as MAX RPM, with 2750 having the Red mark. come to think of it, maybe I was maxing it out to 2750 and that's what is killing the engine. But in VR it's so darn difficult to see it exactly, I almost need to dive to the knee level to see the actual exact reading.. edit: anyway, we seem to have hijacked the thread.. i'll leave this topic for some other time and place, but will do more testing, i'm sure it's all because of my actions...

2700 is in the RED danger zone yeah, that's why I'm thinking it's either a bug (following the ignition/detonation logic) or we're missing something in the picture. I do remember seeing Yo-Yo's posts from way back warning folks to not lower rpm's abruptly and/or beyond 2000 due to the ignition timing, but that's about it from ED's side. Maybe there's more but I'm not aware of any other info...

agreed on all points. However, in my personal experience with dog fights in DCS MP is 99% of the time they happen at a pretty low altitude with a rather short altitude changes, again, it's my personal experience, which I'm sure is limited, i.e. i'm commenting from my use case specifically. And in those 99% of the time every time I used 2700 with water injection the engine died within 30 seconds at 100% of the time used. Yet doing it on 2600 was perfectly fine 100%. Call it a simulation gap, perhaps, but that's really the only reason why I stopped using 2700 at all, it doesn't look like its worth the time. Your commentary is making me think all sorts of tactics right now and I will definitely revisit the 2700 dilemma soon enough.... Hopefully i'm wrong and i'm simply making some mistake in the process. edit: although even with 2700 working I still doubt there is going to be that much of a difference in the actual dog fight. If you are bounced and damaged then it won't matter, if you are bounced and not damaged then the tactics are 99.9% and the extra 100rpm is the remaining 0.1%, which is .. yup. And if you are an attacker the tactics are 99.99% and that extra power burst won't help a zilch.

ok, so over-boosting is a high altitude risk then with 2700 rpm I have very little luck. Honestly I'm not that sure of how much more power it can add with everything else maxed out whilst In a close df combat with yo-yo's, scissors, and other loopty-loops. Now, if I'm chasing someone over long distance there may be the need for it, otherwise it's too risky for me..

I only managed to do that at 28,000 ft when the turbo over-sped and I didn't see the barely noticeable warning light, and it was on water as well. I think people may also boost their rpm to 2,700 during the df crisis and that extra 100 rpm is indeed a complete and utter killer. I stopped going above 2,600 altogether, and the engine stays totally fine for 15 mins with max throttle/max turbo<22,000/fully open oil rads/air rads with water injection.

My biggest pet peeve with this server is the accuracy of the coordinates of the ground enemy units. I'm talking about the targets that are located in the open field areas, i.e. NOT in the cities. In VR it's extremely difficult to locate them even if you KNOW PRECISELY where they are. In this server the coordinates are very poor and can cover 5km x 5km blocks, and finding the units is extremely difficult. Majority of the time I find them when they already start shooting at me, and unfortunately it's the only tactic that has the highest chance of me finding the targets. I sense it's one of the reasons why such a few players are actually interested in working on the ground objectives and simply resort to a never ending CAP. I know the server admins are all about "team play" and stuff. But sometimes I don't feel like talking to anyone or listening to anyone and just wanted to run couple of ground attacks, and it turns in to a total crapshoot when I can't find targets after circling the objective area for 10 minutes, which usually ends up in someone finally noticing me and shooting me down. Yay.

@JordanLField, @WelshZeCorgi guys, if you're having issues with objects appearing/disappearing the most likely culprit is in the shaders, i.e.: - remove ALL mods from DCS - remove ReShade if you're using it - run a repair/file integrity check to replace all of the shaders with the stock ones - delete FXO and Metadata cache (in SavedGames\DCS) After that try AERO and see if the results are any different.

that's actually pretty interesting. Can you tell us: - how far apart the shakers are? - shaker's watt spec? My rig is metal like @corbu1, so I guess wood particles/glue really do attenuate the vibrations enough to create those separate zone (is that why they put loud speakers in to wooden boxes instead of aluminum? duh.. ) challenge is, for me at least, that I'd need to rebuild my whole darn cockpit .. lol..

yes, the higher you'll place those shakers the more of a stereo you'll experience due to their close proximity to your ears/inner ear, however you might not actually enjoy it .. because well.. low fq vibrations near the head aren't fun . The best combo, in my subjective opinion, is to combine the bass shakers with the jet-seat. With such setup you'll have the low fq 'rumble' under the cockpit + focused small area vibrations from the jet seat. yes, with my 3 shaker setup I have spread it across my butt, hands, and feet, it's sufficient for my needs at this point.

I've used the bass shakers for 4 or 5 years now. In my experience: - the left/right (stereo) with 2 shaker setup does not offer anything unique vs. 1 shaker (mono). The only difference is a stronger shake/vibration and there isn't much 'stereo' to experience. It's mostly due to both of them connected to the same metal frame and not enough of a distance between them. The low fq sound 'wave' produced by these shakers is veeeery long and your lower extremities feel both of them as 'vibration' without any particular direction where it came from. That being said if I focus my attention 100% on the vibration then I can somewhat identify which side it's coming from, however whilst being engaged in the actual flight/dog fight the precision goes out of the window and it all becomes just a vibration. - Instead I've used a 3 shaker setup: 1 under the seat, 1 under the joystick, 1 under the rudder pedals with volume control per shaker. This way I get a better emulation of the length of the cockpit.

I've returned apple juice to Amazon. I'm sure they'll be fine with the return of some electronic components..

if the manual I found is the correct one then looking at the diagram the KY-040 actually has 3 signals: 2 encoders + 1 button (pushbutton?) I think the pushbutton function is electrical in nature and you need to use the software to make sense of it. As far as connecting it to Bodnar it'll be similar to Bnumber/GND, i.e. Encoder1/+ goes to B1/GND, and encoder B goes to B2, not sure about encoder C, i think it's some sort of electrical thingie than the actual signal.. You can try them with bodnar, and see if it works, some folks suggest using bodnar configuration software to define the lenght of the electrical 'pulse' so it registers as a button press, but the software is only needed if you want to modify the default behavior, otherwise it works out of the box. Although, if you're going Bodnar route then I'd recommend you get the encoders from his website, as they'll be tested against the boards/software. Here's a link to one example: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=192 null

no sweat, it's easy-peasy with bodnars. Check out the pic below, the bottom of it shows the bodnar board with the plastic wire snap-in holder, as you can notice - no soldering For me the biggest 'challenge' with building button boxes was to get the proper buttons/toggles, i.e. like in my case below I connected 30 x 2-position toggles to 2 x bodnars (32 button ones). In my case the toggles are "MomentaryON-Off-MomentaryON", i.e. the lever springs back to the center. There are toggles with "ON-Off-ON", meaning that you switch the lever to either side it will stay there until you move to the center (OFF), or to another side (ON). So in my case, the MomentaryOn-Off-MomentaryOn toggle had 3 wires, 2xsignal and 1 ground. If you look at the board you can see B17/GND, B18/GND, etc. So the one toggle uses two buttons B17 and B18, however only B18 has GND connected. With a single button you'll just plug 1 wire in to Bx (button) and another wire in to GND. For 2 position toggles you'll split them, as long as GND is provided via one button the whole toggle will work... etc etc etc.. null

you can take the easy route and use Bodnar boards. It doesn't need any programming. The ECU on it is recognized as a generic USB Joystick and you can hook up 32 or even 64 buttons to it, it's all plug'n'play really. Wiring with bodnars is simple. Every button has 2 connectors, so the board provides a plug'n'play way for it, no need to solder anything, just plug the wires in and the board holds the wires in place via plastic tabs. Encoders are basically button emulators, i.e. with every twist it emulates a button press, so a continuous turning of the knob will result in a subsequent button presses. Turning the knob to the right with emulate buttonX and turning to the left will emulate buttonY. With bodnar board you simply plug it in to 2 slots (one for each button). Encoders have 3 wire connectors, signalY-ground-signalX. With bodnar you'l connect SignalY-ground in to one button slot, and the remaining SignalX in to another button slot.. https://www.ricmotech.com/leo-bodnar-32-input-button-box-interface-board

In IL2 there's a soviet Mig3 ac with a similar radio antenna in front of the cockpit, on the right side of the fuselage. In VR it kind of attracts your attention at first but after a while you don't even notice it. null

just FYI a lot of MP servers have "HOT, No fuel" description for A8 (and P47 as well) in the role slots. It's due to the lengthy warm-up of the radial engines in-game, sort of a speedy way to get up and fly these birds So they give you a warmed up engine, all you need to do is ask the ground team to fuel it up and off you go.

if the in-game picture doesn't skew when you tilt your head then no need to run it. The 'position' of your head using OpenXR does put you way above everything. I need to 'recenter' my VR view using Num5 every time I launch the game. Recenter has nothing to do with the cross-eyes WMR tool.

right on the manual .. I do my run ups to see if DCS won't falter... it's wrong.. but this way it doesn't die since it's a game and all.. with bugs and stuff.. I think we need a 'failed take off' track from you to try it and see if we achieve the same result..

in my experience the only times when it quits on take off is when I didn't wait long enough for the oil pressure to be within the allowed limits. nullBefore the take off always do an engine run up to the 2,500 rpm whilst observing the OIL pressure gauge making sure the need stays in the Blue, i.e. below 100.

These topics are extremely engaging for me personally but at the same time it is rather discouraging to participate in them due to lack of any engagement from ED itself.

yup, btw you can use the latest HMD firmware (can't remember the release version) with VB 3.5.1, no issues with running it like that.

hey, guys, @Brainfreeze, @fastf1nger i'll update the first page to reflect the changes, however they are minimal and non-impacting. The overall approach is pretty much the same, except for an updated .dll and the .ini files, however the files referenced in the first page still work with the current DCS releases.