agrasyuk

I will post a few, but only if you modify the thread title to not be all caps .

I think it's a good idea to migrate from the legacy hub version to "flightpanel" version. It's a more recent one.

Thank you! I didn't implement cover opening detection The only workable control under it is the load button. I figured that If it turns out that load button cannot be pressed without opening I will write a short macro.

NP Vinc, and thank you again on the private note! After several attempts I worked out the shape of the right console corner piece. lot's of compound angle cut's there. The segment display PCBs seem to be stuck in the mail somewhere. In the meanwhile I printed and assembled the covers for the ARC164 radios. Yes, I joined the dark side - purchased a 3d printer a month back. STL files are attached if anyone interested (these are my first attempts at fusion 360). printed, laminated and glued the frequency card. I really like the outcome so far. Cover.stl Cover Hinge.stl

Pics are helpful. but the most helpful piece of info would be how much are you asking

That one is indeed an iconic sim system.

Thank you Thomas The two outboard frequency dialers are 4 position 51th series Grayhill rotary switches. The three inboard frequency dialers + the channel select are 26th series Grayhill absolute encoders indexed at 22.5 degrees (continuous rotation) The two mode select switches are 26th series Grayhill absolute encoders indexed at 45 degrees. I blocked out the bottom position by inserting stops (cut from piano wire ) under the gasket. Squelch is another Grayhill miniature rotary switch blocked for two position operation. I got the angle of the key in the PCB very wrong, will be drilling another set screw to match pointer position. Knobs are a copy of a copy of the real ones that DM sold me years back. Cast in urethane plastic. I can supply if anyone wants. I'm gearing up to cast those from aluminum, hopefully soon.

ARC-210 Radio in progress: corrected backplate PCB arrived and assembled. UFC with addon that I call TIRHolder, I think it's function is self explanatory. still more button's to be done CDU revisited. this time I will build it properly. Need more buttons

Nothing to nuts . Check the completed auctions, street price is on the 50-100 range, with average of 75$ . It used to be average of 50 or so some years ago. Of course there always will be those multi hundred "offerings " of scammers and those hoping for the best.

That's a very interesting find. Thanks!

Looks like a really good start. I'd think you need some more detail in there for manufacturing, but I guess this still WIP. Judging by drawing of the PCB it looks like you planning on grouping several panels into single device. While this solves some problems I still would keep them separate. Good luck!

never had an issue ordering from bodnar , ordered several boards for custom projects, always gets here to the states in about 7-10 days. Yes, BBI-64 is just a button board with no analog axis. works perfectly, I'm driving pair of my MFDs with it - has the exact number of inputs I need for the pair. though there is a somewhat strange glitch once i got into the 63 and 64th buttons for the held position of the off-night-day switch. , if you use that board you will need something for analog axis as well. for your device I'd go with the BU0836X good luck!

Bodnar boards are only sold directly from Leo's website as he is in UK . No programming is necessary, it will be presented to your PC as complete joystick Plug and Play device.

For input-only device Bodnar boards are great. For control as important as throttle I wouldn't go with anything other then hall sensors. Yes they are more expensive then 1$ a piece. I attempted to build a mechanical assembly with cheap sensors and a rotating magnet but I couldn't accomplish this reliably

I keep one MSFFB2 just in case. I found that I just can't remember what I was mapping to those keypads so they were quite useless to me. I still have the nostromo n52 keypad, from back in the day when they were made by belkin. And a logitech G13.

upgraded to 3080ti from 1080, it was a considerable improvement, almost double the FPS (10700K at 5Ghz is the CPU). playing on dual screens + another one for instruments . I would have preferred the 3090 , but I just kept missing out on it. While it looks like AMD stuff might be competitive in single screen applications I'm really happy with the upgrade, your dilemma comes down to funds availability. I read that 3070 is a very capable GPU, it is certainly better then nothing. but if you can upgrade to something higher, I'd go for it good luck

Shooting in the dark here since I don't own harriet yet: Is the lua file for this device (maybe MPCD.lua ?) has "render purposes" enabled for all? This needs to be done for devices like A10 RWR. Good luck

Never tried that configuration, but I suspect it will run at the speed of the weakest link/slowest card regardless of what monitor connected to what card. The reason I say this is that DCS treats screen real estate as a whole and only than you slice the combined res into view ports. Having a single card probably will be preferable. Good luck

see attached. Enjoy working with TGA font font_A-10_CDU.tga

Looks like a very neat setup. :Thumbsup:

Looking good Callum. And It looks like you used actual CMSP as foundation. I happened to be working on CMSP as well, will be using the mini mega for it. For dimming I built a 555 PWM circuit directly on board, and jumper solder points to be be able to select an output from andino to drive the brightness as well.

not so much pit, but I now have a GPU for my flight sim and that should help. stupid card, even more stupid price, but I gave up waiting on 3090. "huge" doesn't quite describe the size. and what a fit, by a hair. that being sad I will need to lower that drawer , that hot exhaust probably should have some room to flow out

If you serious about making your own parts I don't see any way around learning at least the basics of CAD. even if you find premade panels you will more often than not need to make modifications. Effort of learning will pay off big time. Let me know if you want me to show you around my process.

Looking good Lucas. And great to see you back working the pit again.

DM, that is a great job on the mod, and even great job on documenting all of it. Not sure I would go full length like that to modify a warthog throttle) To add, the feel of a non tactile otto T5 switches suck, center push is easy to miss so I'm not binding anything of critical importance to it. If I would have to do this all over again I would use T4 tactile model for the MIC button.