agrasyuk

welcome to the board. great to see the tried and true techniques in use. looking forward watching your progress.

that's a good start. what's next?

I could. Sold my rift S after few month. Was in love at first despite the nausea. Nausea subsided, but I couldn't bear seeing the world through diving mask. Waiting for a headset with nice FOV and deep sweet spot. The upcoming pumas looks promising, but the $$$... will need to save up.

As I see it Normandy is for WWII, Nevada is for training and qualification campaigns, Syria is for fighting. Persian gulf I do not own. Specifically for the Apachie I cant think of much better map then Syria

redone the LASTE with proper switches. EAC switch guard is pending. Time has finally come for the intercom device I purchased from @Deadman 7 years (WHAAAAT!???) ago. or was it 8 years? ... Face plate redone. SMT LEDS are placed in engraved/dremmeled recesses and connected into chains with thin wire strands. clear tape to insulate the exposed wiring from the metal backplate. new "skirt" with engraved cations for the main rotary selector switch.

That panel is almost 9 years now. Sheesh, time flies. Look for either 1TL1-5 or 2TL1-5 first digit is the number of poles, last digit signifies your desired behavior of momentary action on one of the sides. If I'm not mistaken suffix letter of "K" (so 2TL1-5K altogether) will signify the desired locking action, but I might be reading the locking config chart wrong. will need to get home and read the PN to tell you for sure. I didn't find proper switch listed on ebay at the moment.

LOL ) Almost all of the honeywell locking switches were purchased on ebay through the years. Are you looking for locking on-off-(on) aka the cockpit canopy switch by a chance? Because otherwise NKK does have all the configurations. If so I have a right switch for you that I can spare.

Personally I'm really looking forward flying IAF support missions for ground troops in southern Lebanon buffer zone.

detailed caution panel. laser cut front plate parts and row separators assembled front panel and LED holder with reflective cavity. I will be using single 5mm LED per indicator Painted panel. printed indicator housings. front lens is green transparent acrylic. labels are engraved on Optix95 light scattering acrylic that was painted black. I do not have LEDs installed yet but testing this with a flashlight looks great!

Thanks for the share. Are you really using latching buttons? Aren't these supposed to be momentary ones?

Quality switches can indeed get very expensive. Grayhill buttons can sometimes be found on ebay. Built markedly better then the "china-fantastique" brands.

Molding materials come in different elasticity. If you need the harder one you probably going to better off with urethane based molding material. Silicone parts are also VERY finicky as far as gluing. Picrured: the blue mold is silicone , the brown one is urethane That said, my vote is to always use full size proper toggle switches. Good luck!

dear lord, feeling slower today? you don't recognize the funky chat program?

Хорошо выглядит. Но если не панелизацию то хоть пазы бы прорезать перед заказом? Так же на будущее предлагаю "заливать" платы - на пару грамм больше прочности. Тут кажется будет понятно что имею ввиду

Today's newsletter specified early access starting in December

Loos like a mighty good CPU . being on the 10th gen. I will be sitting this one out.

Warbrd for tabletop, CM2 for pit with extensions . Back in a day I added bunch of hair scrunchies to the TMWH base. It made things markedly better. Today I run with CM2 with the long extension. Heavy spring fully tensioner provides for usable resistance (wish it would be a bit more)

love it. great job

Meritless discussion. I really don't care how someone somewhere might feel about me.

I'd say the proper way to achieve this would be to open the throttle and and replace the switch with one that has your desired behavior. I wouldn't do it though. Perhaps put the momentary switch for flaps on any other panel that you are making? There was a stencil DXF file on this board for Warthog throttle face plate (i think it was made by @jrsteensen if I remember right). I have a copy somewhere, can share when I get home if you can wait .

I'd say the comfort requirement is the way to go. dimensions of my project were derived from several plywood/cardboard mockups, I made the distance such as to not knock the stick and knuckles onto the Instrument panel while sitting as close to it as possible .

Did you get the connections right? If that device is a working linear taper pot with at least 1K of resistance then it should work just fine.

Looking good. Not that it's to critical but I'm making my TEDAC screen 158.75mm. To my understanding that's what 6.25" translates to. Looking forward seeing more stuff from you guys

https://fly.elise-ng.net/ compared to the investment in hardware it's not that expensive.