agrasyuk

I'm very curious about how that special screen Peter found going to look, but I'm very very sceptical. I have no doubts about ordinary TFT without the backlight however - it will not be sufficient to display HUD symbology . friend had a transparency projector hacked with 15lcd tft, so had a chance to see how those look in action . And that is aside of the non colimated image . the closer HUD solution placed to main front view screen the lesser deviation due to non collimated imagery. Focus distance difference also obviously becomes less ofor an isue as well. But that kind of defeats the purpose of hud, no? Might as well project it with the main view and have a piece of glass in front for decorative purposes .

interesting find. It will not work however - unlike this LCD actual HUDs provide collimated image. This one cannot prove collimation and always changing eye position (as it is not really feasable to restrain one's head) will result in hud imagery being not stationary in relation to main out side view. Then there was an issue with the hud viewport itself. While PeterP successfully exported everything he couldn't make the flight path projection mark (plz remind me the proper a10 term) stationary . IIRC It has to do with some ED code that calculates view deflection as forces act on our simulated pilots head, and Peter couldn't lock the viewpoint. I aquired combiner glass and a HUD lense (from harrier I believe) , will be attempting a working HUD when time comes.

Except hidmacros doesn't work for DCS. Or at least it wasn't when I attempted. The issue is DCS seems to see the keyboard on a " lower hardware" way so to say. The result is that DCS will still see the original hardware level keystrokes on top of the hidmacros a signments.which as you can imagine provides for some very entertaining time troubleshooting the strange behaviour that ensues. Then there is an issue with keystroke timing, DCS does lIke to have a delay before key_down and key_up events. 10-20ms delay in my autohotkey scripts seemed to be adequate. I didn't try hidmacros since though, maybe someone more proficient then me will be able to make it work.

Strange logic.

Даже на не круглую трубку одеваем маску и порядок. Но мне не кажется это целесообразным, уж очень громоздко, особенно если тренажер домашний. Мне кажется нужно думать более о каком нибудь программном решении для ЖК экрана. На вьюпорт радара наложить фильтр "теплое ламповое изображение" если на жк оно экспортируется не достаточно "тепло"

Very neat construction. Thumbs up! And indeed, having those cougars with functuonal LCDs is an amazing gamechanger.

here is a cheap china servo lot , comes up to ~2$ per servo. better then 5$ . for instruments though it is better to use the VID steppers as they produce much smoother motion. more expensive though and you will need to figure out how to interface them : lot of 10 good luck and post pictures of your project

Looks great. However messege is conflicting a bit. You say you don't want to boost TM sales and want to release grip with base (understandable) , but then you say you will start selling grips without... At any rate this almost sounds like you about to start taking preorders. Just want to make sure my name is on list for a grip. Regards.

this looks like defect with the encoder. the incremental type you have pictured will not send signal on any leg when at rest, it should not stay on. try different encoder perhaps?

For this application the processor is more of a bottleneck - DCS is quite CPU heavy. If the upgrade you mentioned is the only thing you can afford it's understandable. 750i is a vid card built specifically to be low enough power to not require PSU upgrades so don't expect much out of it , but it still will be a step up from your current one and the CPU still will be the weaker link.. Ideally you will want something more powerful though.

With all the stages of release it sounds like you have a solid business plan lynx. Bent alum sheet is the way to go for high end enclosure. But for lower end why 3d print if you can work with sheet plastic/acrylic? Easy to cut, easy to drill, easy to bend. will make a much better end product, with much better aesthetic and mechanical properties. I also wonder why do you feel the need to 3d print a brightness knob, is the original that expensive? (is there original?) To your earlier comment about positivity of separate enclosure to house Arduino, look at the nano sized boards if you didn't already., you will sure find room for that tiny thing, I don't see why you have to have full size uno in there. Since at the moment I'm too working on a device with lots of buttons I'm very curious how you plan to provide backlight , attach and hold to the actual switches etc. Basically see the backside. I do understand if you prefer not to share th is detail for now. With that could you share the size of your buttons? Reason I'm asking is that at the moment I'm working on casting my own and curious as fast as compatibility. The one thing that always bugged me is the flat paddle button caps. I understand firsthand the challenge of making it non flat , but I did manage to accomplish making one . Even though the slope is not as agressive as real one (for ease of engraving) the line in middle makes it much more alive IMHO. Unless you already working on slopped paddles my solution can be available to you. ADD : so the ms33558 font is not used for the big symbols on the buttons ? Which one is it then? The engraving on the panel itself looks the usual font to me.

that looks like a solid start. as the matter of fact that is almost identical to what i had when the pit madness was just stating in my head. or actually no, at that point it was to late :) http://public.fotki.com/tankist/cockpit---/simpit-take-2/dsc-1538.html http://public.fotki.com/tankist/cockpit---/simpit-take-2/dsc-1540.html

almost anything adafruit will have a tutorial and a library . in case of their i2c servo shield they also have a tutorial that includes how to wire and simple code example: https://learn.adafruit.com/16-channel-pwm-servo-driver/hooking-it-up. so to start my suggestion is as follows: 0. realize that it will not be done for you and you will not get away from learning at least basic Arduino programming :) 1. follow Ian's tutorial (http://dcs-bios.a10c.de/docs/v0.3.0/userguide.html) about wiring simple panel. you will get familiar with declaring functionality of arduino pins and getting input output from the Sim. DCS<->Arduino. 2. follow adafruit tutorial on how to adress and talk to i2c shield , should get you familiar on how to send PWM pulse to the servos. Arduino->Servo I2C combining the 2 steps you should be proficient with receiving a variable from DCS World and sending it to proper servo per your addressing. there probably will be a piece of math that will recalculate DCS values into PWM values Servo shield expects before sending them to. i'm not a pro in this, but when you have more specific questions i will try to help. Ian probably will chime in at some point. good luck!

Panel looks very good! Also very good that you not going to 3d print the buttons. The result wouldn't compliment the panel at all.

Weeb, those step down converters should be good, but I have quite a bunch of car chargers laying around. will keep cannibalizing these for now :) the masters (manual milled), silicone rubber molds and some buttons from the first run. clear epoxy cast. second batch is curing already

Therion is good. i remember banging to Theli...

thanks John . this stacking technique definitely works. soldering pins on the front was a challenge at first, melted some plastic . but as i went i developed the muscle memory to do it right. i'm now looking for some lower profile pin-header solution to bring boards closer to each other. i think boards being so far apart is my only gripe i'm definetly guilty of missing the obvious when drawing. Devised "foolproof" solution, the traces start as a line and then outline is drawn around it. seems simple , if red and green intersect there is the mistake, easy to spot, can't miss it. did several reviews even. yet for some reason i did not spot some until they were etched. so some cuts and jumpers do exist on my first board. while i fix things i actually added more functionality - next iteration board will have a 12V passthough headers from the top layer to the bottom one, so no extra wiring will be needed for back-light power. not show on pictures is the car-lighter powersupply (took apart a nice samsung car charger) to convert 12V into 5V for the Raspberry. so my PiCDU device will need single 12V input to power lightitng, LCD and the PI still, i can't but think what would this have taken if i went with perfoboard. shudder :fear:

Not Final result but its things more shape since i do single sided PCBs additional board was done to accomlish rest of the key matrix . the two will connect via pin headers. 8.5mm buttons soldered. (6mm tacts with 17mm long shaft are on order). soldered USB breakout wires to the PI and headers to keyboard controller. attached it will look like below. button rows and columns still need to be wired to controller

Drilling fiberboard is quite taxing the drill bits it seems, first holes were so much easier. that and the sheer amount of the holes to do. i thought i'm going to go nuts pulling on drill-press handle over and over today. that is behind me however for now - done and started soldering buttons. failed to spot several routing mistakes on the drawing and they slipped by into the PCB. soldered couple extra jumpers on board and correctedthe drawing as i went .

Thanks guys! John, I highly doubt that soldering will be any different for round or square pads. And I do realize round pads would look much better aesthetically( I actually experimented with round pads),l. The final shape however has to do with the overall atrocious and ineficient routing and drawing process that I do. That area I have loots of room to improve on. Drilling is b...ch, but time saved on not dealing with wiring mistakes for over 60 button matrix will be well worth it.

AFAIK there is no such thing as ADI or HSI viewport (there is one for rwr however). So to display those on second screen I used Helios.

i'm very curious what incidents are you referring to with this. ADD: plagiarism - passing someone else's work as your own, using another's work without crediting the source. This is a serious acusation you made, and can't think of an instance when your work was plagiarized here. Not only since around March-April when you announced "in couple of weeks" timeline, but in several years I've been reading this forum.

Making PCBs for my CDU device. i completed the backlight PCB some time ago and started on one for buttons. traces on etch mask. since this board is single layer i will need to solder bunch of jumpers on the other side to complete the matrix, or do what John Warhog does -make the traces on another PCB and sandwhich with pin-headers in the acid pan. i built a small box with two lamps standing. glass cooking form sits on the bulbs heating the etchant. when the copper is removed the traces are glowing red making inspection a snap. i'm still learning to work with the muriatic/hydrogen peroxide solution. after almost half hour of nothing i discarded the etchant i used earlier (that stuff does not need special disposal) and mixed fresh batch - was done in under a minute! etch mask paint is stripped and started drilling. drill bit is to dull to continue, will drill later after honing the bit. scroll saw blade is busted since the last cut, will need to replace that before cutting the screen area out. that fiber really eats non carbide tools ...

У разработчиков уже заложенно в рабочем плане какие майлстонз должны быть достигнуты для выпуска. Как влияет выход W10 на этот план я не знаю. знаю только что количество подписавшихся под разными петициями влияет на этот план ровно никак.

Bf109 is a very real airplane. real pilots that used to really fly it did not do so wit their feet on the floor. I have no problem with your preference (and that's why I went with modern styled system as well) and obviously you will want something closer to the plane you want to fly. But don't dismiss the other style of pedals as unrealistic - it is modeled after real system.