kgillers3

I’ll see if I can find the how to video but I bought some dielectric grease from the auto parts store put a thin film on and it was silky smooth. People will suggest the more expensive stuff but the $1.97 spark plug grease did great for me for years before I changed setups. Give me a bit to find the video on how to. I wouldn’t recommend spraying wd in but if you take it apart and clean and wipe it down with wd it might help a bit if that’s the way you want to go with it

As answered too you before. The bag is not for ifr. A good example of not understanding the purpose of something

They pretty much answered it under normal situations the controls are linked, if it moves in the back it’ll move in the front and vice versa. So passing controls back and forth is telling the other person “I have control” and then the other person relinquishing control so both pilots arent fighting each other. The bucs trigger has to specifically deal with an emergency when the bucs system is enabled in one of basically 2 ways. As stated it’s not modeled so you don’t need to worry about it too much in dcs.

Are you saying as nvs or on the video page?

It’s important to distinguish that due to the differences in the physical controls and the differences between how the game perceives an input versus real life and dcs the two aren’t the same and every setup will vary based on user curves and style of controls. I have springs on my rudders/pedals and I’ve just become accustom to lifting my feet after trimming with a 3% dead zone which allows the pedals to recenter in real life and in game holds whatever trimmed position and I don’t accidentally click off unless I mean to. I use the first option or instant trim I believe it’s called. I apologize it’s been a long day and you’ve probably said what you’re running but I haven’t seen it. There should be the third option in the special menu which I’m guessing would more benefit your control setup for the pedals, reason is it’s not expecting the pedals to center and it just moves the trim setting. I don’t know if it’ll help but maybe. I’d suggest adding a slight dead zone, and a tad bit of friction so you’re controls don’t drift. Idk if it’ll help it’s worth a shot. As far as holding the trim release, in game I make an input and bump the button when I get it to where I want or the desired input. I haven’t been able to play the latest update so what I used to do may be different with the latest flight model tweaks. I hope you find something in this to either give you an idea to make it a more enjoyable experience or at least an idea to go down. Good luck

I’d recommend including a track so people can see what’s occurring along with what your controls are doing. It should help with clearing up the confusion of terminology and assist you with getting a more refined answer on what’s going on.

You need to bind the trigger guard open or I believe they added it in the special options to default open.

Maybe they add it or maybe they don’t but in the mean time what I found useful was binding one of my toggles as a modifier (if you have one available) and binding all the keys to the keyboard with the switch as a modifier so I would switch my toggle type and switch off, if you leave on your other buttons won’t work until you click it off. Now the ku is already bound to the keyboard with a modifier but I found it personally awkward to use, you could rebind the ku and rework your controls might be another work around if you don’t have a switch or don’t wanna mess with the toggle. hope this helps you in the in between time.

What I think you're experiencing is the heading hold was active at that point, which is going to attempt to keep the aircraft within a certain amount of degrees on heading of which it's established. When you displace the pedals past a certain point the aircraft goes "The pilot wants to make an input" and disables / places on hold the heading hold. Which is why you see the jerk because it's no longer trying to maintain the heading. It's important to understand that all of the hold modes are WIP and will undoubtably become smoother to use I think in the future. But to answer your question on what you're experiencing. What I would recommend is try a little counter pressure after initiating the turn and reaching your desired heading (push the opposite way a little bit) and release pressure off the pedals to see if it re-engages, or what's easier just retrim and allow your pedals to recenter, if you're using dampeners where your physical pedals remain in place, just release pressure and the heading hold should reactivate (after the counter pressure / retrimming) TL/DR - By displacing the pedals you're disabling the heading hold which means the aircraft is expecting you to maintain the heading until it tries to reactivate, retrim once on your new desired heading should alleviate alot of this.

Correct

Tagging on to what @Swift. is saying are you getting an advisory message of Manual stabilator? I've messed with it a little bit, it's always seemed to work for me in the past, however I haven't messed with it since the last update but prior it worked for me from what I recall.

Trim the aircraft for the speed you want using force trim release (up on the 4way hat on the cyclic) and activate the att button (trim left on the hat on the cyclic) Attitude hold will display in the UFD and your airspeed will have an indication show up around it. > 40 kts will put it in attitude hold. 6-39 kts ground speed will put it into velocity hold. <5 kts g/s will put it into position hold, which is essentially hover hold. You'll manage the altitude by setting your power (collective / tq setting however you understand it). But cyclic and heading will maintain where ever you set the position hold. If you set it up poorly when you activate it'll bounce back and forth for a bit but it'll eventually settle down and hold that position. Obviously once altitude hold is implemented you can click it on and off to help you maintain your altitude.

@Punisher74 Reading this more. What was your Sight (bottom left hand corner) Either C-HMD or TADS, and when you was'd gun in the right corner did you have Rounds xxx? @JSpidey To be clear I guess it could affect it if he was slaved to an acq with the sight as tads he also wouldn't able to slew the tads, I kinda assumed it wasn't but then the gun if selected appropriately would be pointing to where the tads was which in this case would be at whatever acq source he selected. My assumption was this wasn't the case but I could be mistaken.

Acq doesn't affect this Did you bind the trigger and WAS on the same control surface? So if you're wasing on the TEDAC you need to pull the tedac trigger.

Not saying it's not a bug, or not an issue, this is just a work around. If you bind the PLRT from the collective it works. I ran into the same issue, I usually bounce between white hot and black hot, and I found by binding the collective polarity button it worked fine.

stability augmentation system, work in progress.

I think it's the sas, and the sas is wip, sas is probably oscillating, happens to me as well, if you put up the show controls indicator you'll see the green plus go back and forth, tends to happen when you're making large inputs and it tends to oscillate back and forth.

So this sounds like a bug unless you’re accidentally hitting your force trim release and you use the return to center option for the force trim.

Everyone has different techniques

@MrNelz So first off I apologize I didn't turn on the control indicator until I was halfway started. So it seems it's better now than it used to be. In this clip I want you to see how much nose authority I have with full down collective. At the decel > initial look at how the nose jumps up when I pull collective. While in autorotative state in dcs 64 your directional control is greatly reduced especially with the collective full down The second track is the same thing, same starting scenario roughly maybe a little different entry, but the main difference is the lack of weapons and fuel. Almost all the way through the auto I was full aft cyclic and the aircraft would not nose up any more, When I tried to flare at the bottom I wasn't able to flare enough to trade airspeed for rotor because the rotor was already decayed so low. I also tried with man stab in the full up position and it was a barely noticeable change. If you're light it's pretty much impossible to maintain rotor at a descent level, just due to NR decay being high already (which has already been reported). However it seems a lot better since the update but that might be a placebo too idk. If you're loaded you'll fall faster but you'll have an easier time maintaining rotor. If I recall the first version of the apache you had to have a little collective input regardless of what your rotor % is to maintain directional control, and I thought the UH-1 was the same, but I just tried it and it worked. So maybe I'm miss remembering. I find if I make a cyclic input in game and the aircraft doesn't do what I want to do I decide if I have enough rotor to lead with a little collective for that movement. Long and short is you may have to trade a little rotor by pulling a little collective to get your nose authority back, in game there's a very quick point of no return. I'm sure it'll continue to improve. I think the loss of control is how they simulated the aerodynamics which is heavy WIP and not hydraulic related. But that is a very large guess. I hope you find this helpful. Noseauthoritywithnocollective.trk Noseauthoritywithnocollective(empty).trk

I don’t believe you’re losing hydraulics if you’re maintaining your rotor, which honestly is better than what I can at that percent and the apaches flight profile is wip. So I’ll post a couple tracks in a minute but I need to test something before, it’s rough to auto rn but it’s doable.

I don’t think dcs allows that, but tbh I really wish it did. I would 100% do it every chance I got. Surprise! Auto!

Is there any change to engine noise?

That would be a personal preference based on what you're comfortable with. Regardless of what happens in RL, you'll find a way that makes it most comfortable for you and your setup.

You can re trim once, point is you're telling the fmc what you want it to do via the ftr and the trimmed position not neccessarily important if you're not using hold modes