some1

80% is peak load in some gaming scenarios, and even that's assuming solid OC on both CPU and GPU. Not constant load 24/7. Anyway, that's another post with no merit on your end, just ad personam. The tread starts to spin in circles so I'm done, my first answer in this thread still stands. Merry Christmas everyone and happy New DCS patch

For the second or third time, please stop cluttering this thread with horror stories about exploding poor quality PSU's and vague comments with no substance. The poster already has a brand new, solid quality model with 7 year warranty, that is recommended at HardOCP and gets good reviews like https://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/corsair-tx550m-gold-power-supply-review/5/ https://www.purepc.pl/test-zasilacza-corsair-tx550m-550w-wydajny-cichy-i-niedrogi?page=0,8 It won't blow up from simply running at 70-80% of its rated power. The measured AC noise/ripple at this load level is also perfectly fine, the efficiency stays around 91%, which is well above "Gold" or even "Platinum" standard requirements. In fact, both reviewers pushed it high above 600 watts in their testing. Sure, I wouldn't want to use this PSU with RTX3080, 5950X, or any high-end Intel CPU, but that is not the topic of this thread. For a setup like 5600X with 3070, it's perfectly adequate. Always easy to spend somebody's else money on things he doesn't need.

For a system that comes out at 400-450W, and that's with a decent overclocking, a 550W power supply is exactly that. A good 20% above required power under full load. No, they don't. That's around 450 according to the linked calculator, and I agree with that estimate based on my own experiences.

Lol, nope, you're mistaken. Here's the actual efficiency verification report, from Wikipedia of all things. As you can see the power supply rated at 2200W actually takes 2370W from the wall at 100% load, to output 2240W at 94.6% efficiency. Power supplies are rated in output power, meaning the current * voltage they can actually deliver to the hardware. The excess heat is not included in the rating. Just like it's not included in the power rating of your car's engine. And please don't clutter the topic with your stories about cheap 1kW for 99$ power supplies. Everyone here has a decent PSU that can maintain its rated power, including the OP.

First of all, if you're measuring at the wall, then you have to multiply by PSU efficiency, which is at best 93% in your case. So that 500W on the meter is more like 460W of actual PSU load (output). Second, a typical 6800XT pulls 60-80W more than 3070 under full load. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/amd-radeon-rx-6800-xt/31.html So both your observations and the calculator posted by @SilentSierra align pretty well, estimating around 400W for a system with 5600X and 3070. Well within capabilities of his current PSU, with a good margin for error.

You've missed the OP question, it's not a matter of 20$, but rather buying a new PSU vs not buying one. Good power supplies are one of the most reliable and long-lasting parts of the computer. Why do you think the manufacturers notoriously offer 6-12 years of warranty on a PSU while most parts in your PC have only 1-2 years warranty? Close to the 'edge' in case of a good PSU is also way above its rated wattage, which is given for continuous operation with some safety margin. Either way, a 5600X plus 3700 is waay below even 550W mark.

Needed, yeah, right. I ran 5900X with 3080 on a 650W power supply without any issues for most of this year. You really don't need gazillion Watts PSU for a mid-range system.

Nah, nVidia is very conservative with their rating and on top of that, they have to account for Intel CPU's that can pull 100-150W more than yours. 3070 takes around 250W, up to 300W with OC. Your CPU is 65W, up to 100W with OC. Plenty of room for the rest of the system and peripherals. I wouldn't change the PSU unless you really start experiencing issues on the new system.

You can simply rename the old .diff files to make them work on a new system. Easier than exporting/importing the settings from UI one-by-one.

The summary of my playthrough of Caucasus campaign in November/December 2021 Overall, eight out of thirteen missions had various issues. I can appreciate the effort and production values, but like everything in DCS, it seems to fall apart when you try something more complex than the simplest stuff.

Not really. The most efficient way to learn the aircraft is to fly that aircraft, not a different one. You just don't use every feature and system from Day 1. Trainer aircraft exist in real life exist because they are cheaper and safer to operate. None of those matter in the simulator. You do something stupid, just hit refly. Besides, none of the trainers we have in DCS would be considered a good trainer in real life for F-16/F-18 transition. They don't have glass cockpits and modern navigation systems, so apart from basic airmanship there isn't much you can learn that would carry over to more capable jets.

It's unrelated to overheating, even the first burst from the guns goes way behind the target.

As I said before, for G2 you will be replacing one middleware with another one. I wouldn't expect much performance gains, if at all. It may offer a better implementation of some aspects than SteamVR for WMR, or it may come with its own set of issues. For Oculus and Valve Index, you'll be actually adding another software layer between DCS and the headset. OpenXR is more for streamlining developers' work, not to squeeze more performance out of the headset. *OXR device plugin interface is optional.

You're all wrong, we need RBCF-4XYZ MacnaPhantom

Yes, he's serious. F-5E is an older module and the textures haven't been updated to work correctly with the lighting in the current version. Welcome to DCS.

I did not have an issue with that part of the mission a month ago, but make sure you're overflying the right truck. There is another group with a vehicle nearby, closer to the bridge than the actual suspicious truck.

Yes, that seems weird. May be a bug. It certainly limits the practical use of Auto and Semi Auto modes.

Also make sure that you're assigning to the correct aircracft, L-39C and L-39ZA have separate set of controls.

Haven't flown the aircraft recently, but it worked fine last time I checked.

BTW the default Bingo setting when the aircraft first loads is 2800kg. Isn't that too high? That's almost full internal fuel tanks capacity.

I created a separate command for paddle press and release, so I can map it to two spare buttons on my joystick grip. It doesn't make the autopilot activate automatically when I release the stick, but the airplane flies very stable anyway, so it's not a big issue. {category = _('HOTAS'), name = _('Autopilot Standby Mode DOWN'), down = iCommandPlaneAutopilotOverrideOn }, {category = _('HOTAS'), name = _('Autopilot Standby Mode UP'), down = iCommandPlaneAutopilotOverrideOff },

Sure, here you go. Even when there's less glare, it's still hard to tell if a button is lit or not. m2kIns.trk

I wonder is that really supposed to look like that? In VR the parts of image disappear unless you keep your head perfectly in the middle. It's worse than an ATM with privacy shield.

Only one of the buttons is really lit. Guess which one. Where does this glare come from? The whole panel is in the shadow, yet at some angles the buttons glare like molten metal and the screen becomes unreadable.

When I switch to the rear cockpit, Iceman will not take control over the airplane unless I bring the stick to centre position first. Which is a serious problem with a joystick with no centre detent.