BitMaster

Nvidia Card + GF Experience and any kind of game controller connected are well known to cause Power Settings to go nuts. Deinstall GF Experience and see if that alone helps, if not, you will have to unplug the controllers and see if that helps. I have the same issue and it sometimes works as planned...and sometimes it just won't go to sleep, regardless if controllers are attached or not. I have no GF Experience installed anymore and over the last year the problem got more serious, it's a hit & miss with this BS OS called Win10. Try to google your problem, you will see, there are many people having the same issue.

Disconnect all Sata drives and try if it boots to the point where it says "No operating system found" and stops. If it does that, one of your drives went bad, connect 1 by 1 then to find which one. It is no bad idea to take all peripherals out of the testing, use as little hardware as possible to see if the error goes away if stripped down to the bare minimum.

https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/16226/complete-guide-to-symbolic-links-symlinks-on-windows-or-linux/

I'd move DCS to the Samsung drive and be done. Apropos Adata... read that article linked in that thread, you might get shocked

Nice ! If I was air cooling I'd likely do the same, cheap & efficient. Heck, one could split the duct ( in CAD ) to blow cold air over RAM, VRM, GPU and CPU.

You should buy the Samsung KIT and not the SSD drive alone. The KIT comes with an EXCELLENT USB-3.0 adapter that I use myself. It's only a few € more but you will get an adapter that is well made and does work as intended. It works with any 2.5" drive, HDD or SSD, that I have tested it with and that have been quite a few over the last years. Check the online offers for the Kit "with" the Adapter included, they are available. * They are called "Starter Kit", those have the USB adapter enclosed, Amazon has them btw.

Disable Messaging in Windows 10 to kill the problem at the root. ...and why can you click anything "Windows" while in the Mirage if you are using fullscreen ? That can only mean non-full-screen mode and won't be solved by turning All Messaging to OFF

You need that to configure it. Check the MS Store, Realtek Audio Console is its name, its a blue icon. At my Mac right now so can't look it up

My understanding is that we are running against an engine wall, you can only achieve what your CPU allows ( IPC x clock speed ). A better GPU does lift your max LOD setting as it is usually not CPU bound but FPS wise you need a CPU first place that can push the limits and then a GPU that can actually use that to give you more FPS, vice versa, a future CPU with unheard performance will allow better FPS when your frame time suffers in your current rig even without a better GPU and will also give you more overall FPS if you also have a future GPU that could make use of such a CPU that can cut frame time to a maximum value that would always allow very high fps. Unfortunately, the CPU is the first step to take and there is none in sight that could remedy the engine limitations. Maybe with new CPUs in 2 years with matured DDR5 at very high speeds we can push harder against this engine wall but it won't come tomorrow. I keep my rig as it is and will not invest in any new hardware unless I need to for other reasons or hardware failure. Actually, I stopped flying DCS for now as I am busy with my life and only occasionally fire it up to touch base and not to forget how to fly. Maybe in 2-3 years I come back as an active Pilot. For now, I enjoy Nürburgring Nordschleife maybe once a month in a Porsche GT2 or GT3 but that has nothing to do with DCS or ED, it's a personal decision based on how much I want to invest time wise to have fun and some distraction from raising two kids, 3 and 5, on my own, that takes 105% of my energy and I couldn't fly and fight even if I wanted to, it's way too much brain juice that I don't have anymore with 51. That and knowing throwing money at software limitations has limited success. But hey, if you got VR smoother ( as it was your GPU bottlenecking ) and some better overall experience, that's what counts ! Have fun

Have you got Realtek HD Audio Manager showing up in your system tray? It's a Speaker icon.

That's as well true. What matters here is that people have been fooled. Honesty is a rare treat.

You will need to DL Realtek HD Audio Manager. That tool allows splitting channels up into individual streams. The bad thing is, that got complicated. Check if your MB vendor still has it in the driver package ( used to be like that prior to 1909 or 2004, cant remeber when it stopped ). Nowadays, it comes via Microsoft Store. Google how it is handled with your board's soundcard. I had LOTS of trouble with that on my recent installs. Either MS Store hung up or some other BS went on. Win7 was much more straight ahead when it comes to drivers and how things are handled over many years, with Win10, prepare for changes happeneing twice a year, round about like that. That is my biggest issoe with 10, it is not consistent over the years and vendors keep struggling to keep pace and once your board is 2 years old, gues what, no more updates !.

True too, but bear in mind the most expensive endavour would be to buy cheap first, then loose data and then being forced to buy the real thing. Heck, even a Samsung or Intel 905p can die in a matter of hours or days if you are unlucky, but betting on the cheapest horse if you have a critical undertaking ahead of you was never a good idea. Fast, cheap, reliable :: PICK ANY TWO another valid approach to that dilemma.

Wich tells me, we are still a mile away. 15,5ms on the deck cries for that engine overhaul, ... or a 5nm +30%IPC +20% clockspeed CPU which is not gonna happen anytime soon. I am afraid neither will be a new stable DCS engine. Back to square one.

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/adata-and-other-ssd-makers-swapping-parts Eye opening article

You may very well need to rest the Bios the hard way if it still will not boot after making sure as said above that the modules are all inserted properly. To reset the Bios fully,: - unplug the PC from AC - wait 30 secs for caps to drain empty ( might wanna push the start button a few times too ) - put the CLEAR CMOS JUMPER in the CLEAR/SHORT position ( look into youtr manual if unsure where and how ! ) - take the battery out - shorten the battery tray's + and - with a coin or s screwdriver ( Metal ! ) by touching both + and - poles in the tray for 1 minute ( 10 sec usually does it, but play safe ) THEN - put jumper frpm CMOS CLEAR back to normal position - insert battery - BOOT IT UP Other things that may give a hint. - CLEAN all dust out of your PC and from all RAM slots - insert only ONE module and try to boot. You can alternate the modules and slots to find the culprit slot or module - disconnect all hardware not needed to boot the board: any drives ( NVMe / SSD / HDD / DVD ), All peripherals but keyboard ( Display, all USB except KB, Monitor, Sound cables, etc.. make the I/O panel BLANK, take GPU and any other AIB out ( you do NOT need a GPU to boot a PC ). Work slowly and have a concept, follow it, take notes if needed, make a pause when you get frustrated and then get back to it following a logical plan ( take all out you dont need: 1 RAM in (any) 1 Slot + CPU is all it needs to boot the beast !! ) Take it easy and slowly

I stopped reading this throughly because this thread has drifted into bashing and use of not-so-nice words. If you want others to contribute, calm down all, stay with facts and RESPECT other's point of view and budget. The facts for either side are printed many times on countless pages throughout the web. Let's play it nice guys. Bit

The main differencies are Memory Management, Group Policy and a few others that may or may be a decisive factor for you like RDP, Bitlocker, Trusted Boot, Hyper-V, Sandbox, Domain Membership ( Azure, Exchange 365 etc.. ) In my world, the only thing I do with Home is deinstall and put a Pro on :) A good PSU is a Tier1 CPU, built with top dog parts. Less ripple noise, ultra stable voltages under load and a safety margin of 20+%. My pick for the last 3 years has been Seasonic Prime either Platinum or Titanium, depending on the use case of the customer. Corsair does not built their PSUs, they are built for them by others from Tier3 to Tier1. AX and AXi are the best ones they have. Look for the warranty, a top Tier1 PSU has 10-12years warranty, 7y is like Tier2 and dont consider any less as sufficient. Look here: http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/PSUReviewDatabase.html

Ahem...again @ 14nm++++ and a heavy TDP add those frequent & famous Intel ME upgrades to the mix and I dare to say AMD is the better choice, given ( as you and many others say ) that they trade blows depending on the game. The consens that I read across those revies is not so much about much higher fps but higher lowest fps and smoother overall gameplay. That counts more than 15fps more, especially if you are into VR.

That 3600-CL20 kit....oh man, who sells 3600 with a CL20 latency ??? That's like a Porsche that comes with 3 cylinders missing. 3600 is usually CL18, better ones have CL16 and real good ones even lower. Never saw a CL20 kit. Anyway, nice testing scenario and I am smiling to see the 6800XT beating Nvidia's 3080. WHo would have thought that 6 weeks ago.

Never mind the board, it's a HP rig with HP components that you likely cannot tune in Bios as you can with Asus, MSI, Gigabyte, Asrock etc.. . HP does not want their customers to screw up Bios and then call HelpDesk. That there is a sticker saying "VR-Ready" does not mean it can run all VR Sims that are out there. It is enough to load and enjoy the basics, but DCS is far from basic or moderate in terms of compute power. Make a big bow around such machines in the future if you intend to run heavy VR. YOu need a machine which is likely neither sold by HP or Dell. If it is, it will be A LOT more money than if you built it yourself or have it built at a store for you. Better price, better perfromance and you can tune it too as it has a Bios that allows it. Dell and HP are good for standard use cases, Office, Home-PC, Laptops for work, etc... but not for heavy simulations like DCS.

Why in God's name do you run Win10 HOME edition ??? I mean, this is a real nice rig, no flaws, no cut corners and then that: HOME edition ...leaves me puzzled. There are certain things Home edition cannot do and with such a rig I'd go to ebay and get me a Pro for less than 5€. Another thing, not critical, is the PSU. 850Watts is OK but for such a beefy GPU and multicore CPU I'd have picked a bigger ( 1kW ) and better one ( Platinum or Titanium ). Superflower is a good pick, just for my taste a bigger one would match the overall impression of that PC better. On the other hand, as long as you do not overclock the GPU and not use all 16 cores at full blast together with the oc'ed GPU screaming you will likely play DCS at the PSU's sweetspot at around ~400w aka 50% load. So it actually depends on what you do with the rig. Either way, you will not get near the 850w in any case unless you use sub-Zero LN cooling and that kinda stuff.

The adapters Devrim got most likely have a chip inside as afaik there is now other way to "translate" the signal from digital ones and zeroes to analog voltage amplitudes.

Wow, man, that's a nice Workstation, 128GB and 16 cores + a nice NVMe. Top Dog setup

The biggest hurdle right now is not what to buy but what can you actually obtain. many many parts or only available on websites as pictures to glance at but no real stock to buy from and I do not think its going to get better with Xmas and Covid. People buy like crazy for home office or home entertainment.... was looking for a 5900 today, sigh, no luck at all in germany.