Buckeye

It has been said many times that yes, they do need to lean in to see the full HUD. I cannot confirm though as I've never driven a Hog myself :thumbup:

It's been discussed, debated and argued ad nauseam already...it's not likely to change, from what I've seen. It is what is generally referred to as "World Scale".

Awesome man, I had no idea you had a Tornado LG too! Thanks a million for the video and the post. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of rotaries (brands and models) should I be targeting? Since I went high quality mil-spec on the toggle switches I suppose I should be doing the same for the rotaries, but not sure where to start on my research for HQ makes and models? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

100% agree, so useful (and necessary) in VR when it's blindingly bright out.

Peter P's neck mod has had this modeled since 2012 :thumbup: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=96116&highlight=peter+neck Super simple mod, one of the last pages has the updated files including the Harrier, etc.

I use 1.2PD and 2x MSAA to drastically reduce the shimmering. Maybe give that a shot? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Curious too, it worked perfectly fine in OVGME for me from day 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks brother, much appreciated. It is currently so far over my head that I couldn’t comprehend any of it lol but eventually once I am up to speed that will be very useful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome, thanks guys! And yes hans I am planning to unlock the red button with a charge on the landing gear. I have absolutely no idea how to do that, haha, but I suppose I will learn that along with everything else through the process :thumbup: If you happen to know of any resources that explain this process (i.e how to), pointing me in the right direction for that would be much appreciated.

VR Cockpit Just picked this Eaton/C&H 8856K7 MS21027C231 up, too...it's a little beat up from real life usage, but I am going to try to clean it up a little once I get it. Was only $20 so I figured why not (versus the $55 I paid for the other one, brand new, above). This one is a 1:1 for the Hornet Master Arm switch. Edit: When this switch arrived the stem was bent pretty badly so it was returned for a refund.

257.8 is GCI/AWACS, but everyone pretty uses it as the all-talk channel. 140.0 for ground, 128.0 for ATC if you want to use the proper channels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

VR Cockpit I've decided that I am going to learn to code, solder, etc. and build myself a full on VR friendly cockpit. It won't be a 1:1 replica of any cockpit, it will be a loose interpretation of the Hornet design with some liberties taken to ensure it is transferable to the Harrier and Warthog, as well as the future Viper. The Tomcat will be a challenge as it is much different than the others in many regards, but I will work around that. Below is the Left AUX spreadsheet I put together to try to draw some parallels and ensure every modules key needs are satisfied. I will be doing this for each section that I build out during the planning phase. I am going to start small with building the left side + left AUX combo panel that my throttle can sit in...I will then bolt this onto the left RSG where my throttle currently is on the Wheel Stand Pro. The Left AUX will be modeled mostly after that of the Hornet, as seen below. I've already begun ordering parts, below is what I've got so far. I made the decision to go with mil-spec Cutler Hammer and Honeywell switches...the cost per switch ranges from $20-50, which hurts the wallet for sure, but I believe it will pay off with the quality tactile feel during operation. Real RAF Tornado landing gear lever 10x On-Off-On Honeywell 1TL1-1 3-way switches, I will be using almost all 3-way switches to remain versatile for usage with all jets: Eaton C&H MS21027K311 On-Off-(On) locking 3-way switch for Master Arm: Honeywell 2TL6-1 On-Off-On 3-way for Landing/Taxi Lights switch: Honeywell 12TW401-1 On-Off-On 3-way for Flaps Control Switch: 2x Cutler-Hammer Eaton 8855K77 MS21436C231 Locking 2-way switches...one will be used for Anti-Skid, the other is TBD: 10x Honeywell 11TW1-7 (On)-Off-(On) Momentary 3-way for things like CRS and HDG (Hornet style below UFC), Auto Pilot, and other switches that are magnetically controlled in the real jet.

Thank you for the response. I will have to give Arduino + DCS-BIOS another look...mostly BIOS as I need to determine if I am competent enough to work within it (thus far the coding aspect of Arduinos has scared me away haha). As for digital readout and displays, while I find them incredibly cool, I won’t be doing any simply because I will be flying in VR so I can’t see them anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RK - Which switches did you go with? If you have a parts list that includes the part numbers that would be extremely helpful and much appreciated. Fantastic work here, one of the cleanest pits I’ve seen [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For something like a Master Arm switch, is it preferable to have a ON-ON switch of ON-OFF switch? I plan to use Bodnar’s and have no idea how to program, if that is useful contest for answering. Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed, and if the Rift team is only targeting this FOV it makes me wonder if the Pimax is going to end up falling flat because they overextended a bit. Guess we will know soon enough, at least on the Pimax front. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji7] In for sure! But isn’t that FOV quite a bit less than what the 8K is promising? Makes me wonder how the two will compare and if that extra FOV will provide other trade offs and how things will balance out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, Sokol. I’ve ordered 20 of the On-Off-On (Persistent) Honeywell’s so far. Going to pick up a few On-Off 2-ways as well as a few On-Off-On Momentary’s as well as soon as I have time to hunt out some good deals on eBay. Pit design will be largely based on the Legacy Hornet pick with work liberties taken to make it VR friendly and versatile enough to work with the Harrier, Viper, Tomcat, etc well enough [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am a major noob when it comes to this, and I know that you’re a respected expert...so perhaps you could help to educate me here? What type of switch should I be looking for? Is there anything that matters for simpit purposes other than the type of switch I want (ie momentary or constant, and on/off or on/off/on)? Do I need to worry about or seek out any other Specifications on the switches (amps, contact form, etc) or is it pretty much free reign? Thank you in advance for your answer. Doing my best to learn all of this quickly...but there’s a lot to learn haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1st VFW? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone have any recommendations for where we should be purchasing Honeywell switches (i.e. who has the most competitive prices)? Thanks in advance :thumbup:

TIL! Thanks for sharing, was not aware. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

...and bump again. Zeus? CaptSmiley? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have two of these mounted in the places one would normally mount MFD’s, works great for VR interaction with the dashboard and right/left AUX panels. Feels natural and the tactile click from the T650 is a nice touch. Not perfect by any means but it’s a nice temporary solution to hold me over as I start work on my more robust VR cockpit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk