Sokol1_br

This part is simple to solve, but require use an solder iron. Early TQS use 3.3 volts for supply potentiometer (seems an way to reduce noise in low cost potentiometer), so have a diode (R1) in PCB for drop the supply voltage from 5v to 3.3v before reach the potentiometer. You need inspect visually the the PCB and since the diode is in the PCB backside, need unscrew 3 Philips screws for look. Avoid touch PCB trails, componentes, with fingers due static electricity surge. Latest versions of TQS use 5v and don't have the diode (R1) installed. Don't know about serial number of this models. Visual inspection is more warranted. If you will install a Hall or MagRez... sensor that require 5v, need bypass the diode, this mean cut the trails that goes for the diode and solder an wire over making a bridge. An better (optional) job is use a 220 OHM as "bridge" because that eventual voltage surge above 5v don't reach the sensor.

Using this card - intend for Arcade controls, all this complicates switches suggestions is moot, because they require a card with custom firmware. E.g. Arduino with Cub firmware, or custom developed firmware for send command in OFF change state of switch. OP best solution is edit LUA files for have command in OFF state of an ON-OFF-ON swich.

If this "properties" means Windows Game Controllers the error there indicate error in (Windows) register.* Clear (Windows) Register for the entries for your MMJoy2 name and enter again in MMjoySetup, using another VID/PID number. Eg. instead 88888/88888 use 88889/88889. * This error don't prevines test the device with VJB JoyTester neither use in games, is thing of Windows obsolete Game Controllers.

Sportsfan I have not tried this 3D Print gimbal personally (have 4 Suncom needing), so can't answer objectively. Until now I have seem few attempts to update Suncom, because original gimbal is a kind of oscillating "Saturn ring", that don't have a defined X, Y axis pivot, so is difficult install sensors. What I know: - Debolestis give up in use this original gimbal, due the above. - DocFlyer pot modification install a Hall sensor inside original potmter, but other than author opinion (~10 years ago), I have not seem a third hand feedback of this mod. Several people say that will try, but no one show results. Debolesis say that try this mod but give up due stiction. - Suncom restoration in X-Plane, despite some people ask directly, that guy never show a picture of Hall sensor installation in gimbal, neither talk about the results. I suspect that Hall don't enter well in "Saturn" orbit. :) - MegaMozg (MMjoy2, VirPil electronics) update a Suncom with a DIY U-Join gimbal with bearings, but has no center spring mechanism, grips is keep more or less on centetered by a rubber boot... could by practical for helicopters use only. For what I see in Object 77 drawings, the "footprint" of this gimbal is 70x64mm (heigh is 43 mm), what occupies more of less the same space of original gimbal. The only modification need is print a extra spacer for put between case top and gimbal top. That small square in Suncom case top have no space sufficient for insert the gimbal, so is need put then lower. The red silhuete - but with the correct "footprint"; is the Object 77-B gimbal, the gray part is the "spacer": upload pic Or maybe if you redraw the Object 77-B top can skip the need of spacer. Another gimbal that fit is this design, make with laser cut metal pieces. Notice that in the topic I ask MYCYJIbMAHUH about dimensions, and conclude that fit. Will need the same spacer need for Object 77-B, by the same reason. Ask MYCYJIbMAHUH, I think he can sell on the basic kit of this gimbal, upper disk is not needed for Suncom. The short answer is: No, until now don't exit a "perfect" solution for Suncom gimbal, still trial and error. :)

No, ED Tracker is based in accelerometer, what theoretically is good, no LED, camera is required...but lack of 6DOF. I find more trick to set than TrackIR - I tried both, and give up of both. :D Sales site is is now offline, DIY instructions still available.

Probable what you are missing is assign TQS axes and buttons in DCS controls (for F-16 or a any other plane). The "auto-assignment" is useless.

Warthog already have an "F-16" grip, what he lack is an... A-10C grip, that don't have "paddle" lever on grip. ;)

As above this 360º sensor is not recommend for pedal brake axes. If you calibrate then manually will achieve around 1024 points (10 bits) in 360º, but when put in pedal they will turn only ~30º, what means that voltage variation in this limited angle will represent only ~85 points of resolution for the USB controller. If you use original pot carcass as base and DIY assembly an Honeywell SS495A1, Allegro A1324LUAT, Microchip SS49E... you achieve more resolution. Using Allegro in this crude DIY arrange I achieve more than 950 points in brakes axis, using MMJoy2 as controller (10 bits/1024 points) for Ch pedal brake axis. Nothing wrong with Bi-Tech sensor, just this model is not suitable for the job. Bi-Tech 612x series has models between 35 and 360 degrees, e.g. 60, 90, 180...

But after define the axes in MMjoySetup you did the calibration -in Mmjoy2Setup, don't use Windows (obsolete) Games Controller. Try increasing the filter valued. I use one of this Bi-Tech 6127 in TQS and work well, but the controller are TUSBA. BTW - You sensor is 360º of "effective electric angle", in calibration processes you need turn all 360º. if you turn less the full resolution of ADC , e.g. 10 bits 1-24 points is nor achieved, because the voltage variation is not 0 ~5v. This 360º model is good for yoke, steering wheel, trim wheel... but not good for joystick, throttle, pedals.

You can test the controller with an common potentiometer, and see if axis input work OK or not. But you don't mention nothing about calibration, is the first thing to do, even before think in test axes. I bet that problem is not the USB controller - the Arduino+MMJoy2, is the magnet and Hall sensor replacement. This "kick back" in brake axis is typical of misplacement of magnet. Just buy a BU0836 will no solve this. Read in this topic how the guy set - after many trial and errors, a HALL sensor + Magnet. Is the "Achilles hell" of DIY Hall sensor assembly. https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/26026-hall-sensor-wireing-simped/#entry365976

Object 77-B is DIY 3D Printed gimbal, with 2 CAM lever per axis and bearings in pivots, designed by ROS-Karavan. People have assembled this gimbal as replacement for Cobra M-5, VKB Gladiator, HOTAS Cougar gimbal. Their dimensions is compact enough for fit inside Suncon F-15 base - need a extra spacer between top of the case and gimbal. If sent for ROS-Karavan the dimension of Suncom upper tube - the part where grip is fit he can draw a compatible tube. For example, the mesures in this sketch, result in tube compatible with Cougar grip. Topic about, with link for STL files in il2Sturmovik.ru forum.

An sim colleague have bad luck with Shapeways printed parts, their 3D print gimbal last around 6 mounts. The attachment area for the spring support bolt broken: Due the crazy global situation, a local made replacement cost less than print another piece in Shapeways.

Resolution is not defined by potmter, but by the ACD of USB circuit, that expect a voltage variation of 0 to 3.54 volts (in the case of your pedal controller, being 5v typical in most controllers) in the angular movement of your pedal. An (CTS HP-100) "CH" potmter can be turned by ~270º, but the electric variation is read only in ~30º, due special design of resistive track. In some - rare, datasheet this is called "effective electric angle". So a sensor calibrated for read 0 to 5v (typical) in 30º is a perfect replacement. You can check in what angular range your potmter really read with a multimeter. Bi-Tech 6127 series of Hall sensor has models with 30, 60, 90 ... 300º of effective electric angle. AS5600 sensor can have the "effective electric angle" programmed (once), without use expensive hardware like need for Melexis MLX90333. Unless the pot are geared (what means complications with play, blackslash...) they are not used in 270º, an car pedal don't turn all this. So first thing you need know is what is the real angle of movement of your pedals, for search for a sensor replacement. But the 3,54v used will limit the options, as most sensors use 5v range.

By what people post in CFS forums, Reddit... install Saitek drivers and software is headache warranted. :D CH software became "lottery" and Thrustmaster software if you are not C++ expert, better leave aside.

This is OK, you have Arduino connected with computer using COM3. But Arduino bootloader port is not COM3, is ab new port that open only for 8 seconds when you short Reset pin to Ground pin twice (fast). Tick the "Start load firmware..." for don't loose the "window". https://www.geneb.org/mmjoy2/pro-micro-instructions.pdf

Basically is: Single Throw (ST) On-Off = two positions switch with electric contact only in ON.* Double Throw (DT) On-Off-On = three positions switch with contact in the outer postions (ON). On-On-On = three positions switch with contact in all positions. The above are latch switches, lever remain in last position. If switches positions are marked with (), means that the lever don't remain in this position, but make a momentary contact, returning to center when leaved (have a spring for this). E.g. (On)-Off (On)-Off-On < just one position is momentary (On)-Off-(On) < both outer position is momentary Besides the Throw, switches can have SP (Single Pole) or DP (Double Pole) connections pins. An On-OF SP have two pins only. An On-Off DP has four pins, see then as two switches controlled by just one lever. The DP type can be useful for overcome some game controls limitations, with just one lever movement you can send two commands for game. * You can make game execute a command in the Off position of this (On-Off) switch, adding this information in game LUA code for each aircraft. So, e.g. switch Up =light on, switch down = lights off

In this prince range I guess that potentiometer are used in axes, is Panasonic 10.000.000 cycles like in MS FFB2? :D

LOL. I missing the "Throttle quadrant" detail. Suncom SFS throttle is very easy for convert for USB, replace (sliding) potmter with sensors.

You need a Neodymium magnet turning/moving with joystick gimbal axes movement as reference for the sensor. The DIY consensus is that the "best" format (for an turning axis gimbal)* is a diametrically magnetized magnet ring. But a cube or cylinder work well too. https://magneticsmag.com/diametrically-magnetized-magnetstech-briefing-diametrically-magnetized-magnets-perfect-for-magnetic-angle-rotation-sensing-by-daniel-a-baker-nve-corporation/ * Original Suncon gimbal is not "turning" neither "sliding", but oscillating, what complicate install sensors, being more easy use a new gimbal (e.g. Object 77-B 3D printed).

X-Fighter grip is almost the same size of real thing, FCS/Top Gun is shrunk for ~80%.

https://ssscinema.vn/

In OP pictures looks like motorcycle steering dampers, like the ones that people used install in Slaw (and others) rudder pedals. You find this damper in eBay, Aliexpress for reasonable prices. But could be too "linear potentiometer", what is very expensive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Linear-Potentiometer-Position-Travel-Sensor-with-Rod-End-Joints-0-to-8-Range-/331032223707 https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/sensors/position-sensors/potentiometric-sensors/linear-displacement-sensors-potentiometer.html?tab=pgp-story

With Spitfire/Hurricane MG's sets for 250 yards or even worse for "Dowding spread" ~400 yards convergence, this Number 1 rules sounds more braggadocio. :))

Curve in VKB DevCfg. NJoy32NG basic features - support Boolean functions; download of DevCfg and firmware latest (Beta) versions: http://alex-oz.strana.de/vers_NG_ru.htm

You have too option for set curves (multiple profiles) in VKB stick firmware, via VKB DevCfg (firmware) configuration software.