Sokol1_br

Will be VirPil base (WarBRD or T50CM2) plus T50CM2 grip or Alpha grip or VKB Gunfigher with MCG grip + Virpil T50CM2 throttle or WingWing F/A-18 throtle. Of course, will be an more expensive option too.

Yes, "auto calibration" is not good idea, for example if you have the joy, pedal... plugged when tun on the computer, and for any reason some of their axis is not on center, the "auto calibration" will define the new center in wrong position, requiring up-plug and plug after for fix, and generally you will notice this after start a game. :mad:

YE-ZB ("Zed Baker") "Hayrate" in il-2:'46 https://www.mission4today.com/index....kid=704&page=1

Is the version you're using. [v20160818upd1].

Some models of German WW2 fighters have level autopilot/course autopilot. Fw 190 D-13 ... was fitted with all-weather flying equipment including the PKS12 and K-23 systems for steering and autopilot. Fw 190 F-8/U4 — created as a night bomber, was equipped with flame dampers on the exhaust and various electrical systems such as the FuG 101 radio altimeter, the PKS 12 automatic pilot, and the TSA 2 A sighting system. The U4 was fitted with only two MG 151/20 cannon as fixed armament. The Fw 190 G-3: The G-3 was based on Fw 190 A-6. Like the earlier G models, all but the two wing root mounted MG 151 cannons were removed. The new V.Fw. Trg bomb racks, however, allowed the G-3 to simultaneously carry fuel tanks and bomb loads. Because of the range added by two additional fuel tanks, the G-3's duration increased to two hours, 30 minutes. Due to this extra flight duration, a PKS 11 autopilot was fitted. Bf 109 G-10/R6 (Bad-weather fighter with PKS 12 autopilot) https://www.deutscheluftwaffe.de/fl-204106-knueppelgriff-kg-13r-1944-1945 Bf 110 has the Siemens LGW-Kurssteurung (used in He 111, Ju 88...)

This option work for "cheater" Spitfire, MiG-15/21 "wheel brakes" - any pedal brake you press will brake both wheels, and moving rudder left/right one this side wheel ("differential brakes"). If P-51*, Fw 190... allow set an axis for "wheel brakes" (???) set a button as modifier in DCS control and set left/right pedal brake axes + this modifier button for "wheel brakes". So with modifier button pressed, brake pedal axes (left or right) don't control left or right "toe brakes" but "wheels brake" in an proportional way, use for slow down after landings. Without modifier button pressed, each "toe brakes" control a individual wheel, use for taxi curves. * P-51 seems have this... "game cheater" :smilewink: option:

Is considered the MMJOY2 [v20160818upd1], the last MMJOY2 [v20161101]) supposedly has a bug with many buttons, don't know exactly what is. Perhaps FreeJoy is more suitable for you project.

No, the game don't have a 'keyboard emulator' embed for do this. :) Are - easy to use, but more simple; alternatives to TARGET like JoyToKey.

A question about the panel with Landing Gear lever. This panels is seem by Windows Games Controllers with Windows native HID drivers? Is required use some software, or switches, levers, axis can be mapped direct in game controls, if, for example the user plan use in a game like Il-2 Sturmovik, with support almost only to momentary commands - "press a button key once for ON, press the game button/key again for OFF" ?

Monstertech has accessories for attach MFD, Tablets... whiskey cup. :drink: https://www.monstertech.de/en/product-category/accessories/

Due pandemic restrictions, MS 2020 and Star Wars Squadrons hype ... a race for joystick happens, and all products are scarce, an people are scamming with prices, a simple T.16000M are overpriced ~50% in eBay.

Yes, the limit for "special functions" is 32 buttons - above work only as momentary press buttons; due ATMEGA32u4 memory limitations, reduced by that support for output for LED ... useful only for War Thunder.

Nyogel'ed T.16000M ;)

F/A-18 grip Add On button # 19 is the press button in left side of grip 5 way HAT (in RL F/A-18 grip this 'HAT' is 3 or 4 buttons only). This button don't work if you use F/A-18 grip Add On in Cougar base, because this base support 18 buttons + POV HAT, Warthog base is 19 buttons +POV HAT. VirPil and VKB bases support up to 128 buttons.

In another forum an guy use this scheme -based 0n the picture of MMjoy2 package, for an old Cougar grip. Curious is that colors of wires match Terril description as well with the picture you post of inside the grip (Warthog or Cougar, new or used?) but pins in conector are in different places. :huh:

Is the same of MMjoy2 scheme (J7): Green = Gnd Brown = +5V Yellow = MISO (Data) Orange = SCK Red = CS Brown = +5v And the same of what Terril Dactil track:

Open your Grip and look what are the colors of wires going from PCB to mini-DIN (PS2) connector.

You are using an Thrustmaster grip, and Arduino+MMJoy2, a combination used with success by dozen of persons. So forget these links with code theory and follow tested recipes. In MMjoy2 package you have a scheme of how wire Thrustmaster grips in MMjoy2: https://i.postimg.cc/x87t30Nd/Handle...ing-Colors.jpg Looks like that brown and orange and yellow wires are swapped in your connections. As Rel4y post above, in MMJoySetup the names of pins is the hexadecimal numbers of MMjoy2 scheme, not the numbers labeled in Arduino.

Yes, T.16000M gimbal is a simplified, more cheap made version of "magnetic base" gimbal. Although statistically are more cases of "magnetic" base gimbal broken under "heavy hands". :joystick: Just in case you don't know, you do better if buy Thrustmaster just TM F-18 grip, but instead the "magnetic" base get an VirPil T50CM2 base, with customizable gimbal - CAM profiles, springs, various lengths of extension, or WarBRD base for desktop use. Or even VKB base, with downside that this require the VKB electronic adapter, rarely available. WingWing is other option with better mechanics. Require extra parts (nut and cable) for attach Thrustmaster grips. "Magnetic" or not, could be said that Thrustmaster Warthog base became "obsolete" with the more advance mechanic options made by VirPil, VKB, WingWing.

If you don't plan sell the Warthog, an VirPil T50CM2 base + their set of extension: 100mm, 75mm, 50mm that can be stacked or their 'S' 200 mm extension can be used with Warthog grip.

Grip used in Bf 109 and Fw 190 is basically the same KG-12B or KG-13B (the difference in number is due the manufacturer). Bf 109 throttle is a bit awkward, a little know inclined in wrong direction, Fw 190 throttle has better ergonomics and usability, unless the 1945 models, simplified to speed manufacturer. Just make a "replica" of this controls is not the best approach, they will be used in games, that even trying mimic real planes has difference in operation. For example, for make an KG-12/13 really useful is need install a button commanded by the flip up/down the trigger, for send command for planes that has this correct modeled, e.g. DCS Bf 109 K, MiG-15. For Fw 190 D-9 was used the "gamey" approach of IL-2 GB with trigger moving like a snake tong. In Spitfire spade grip the camera button can be a 5 way switch.

I suggest you post the issue in VKB forum, even if you don't receive more help, explanations, eventually can alert other people about Aliexpress issues. http://forum.vkb-sim.pro/

Spit40 I suggest post this in https://il2sturmovik.com/ and https://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/, I guess that will catch more interest than here, seems that people interest in Spitfire chill a bit (as happens to me). If want I can post for you in that forums. What the height of this stick? What kind of mount is require, deskmount like Mostertech, VirPil, VKB?

* Since you mention a magazine, download this free exemplar of Computer Pilot and read how you can extend you T.16000M without machined parts... what implicates in have a standalone throttle, and probable will reduce their useful lifetime. http://www.pcaviatornetwork.com/files/CP143MT6FZ6A.ZIP But not that that "3 feet's" of this or that real plane, instead, what is feasible with conventional joysticks with angular movement around 20+20º (some models like VirPil T50CM2 is less, others like CH is more), as people with practical experience with extensions have explained. * BTW - A bit uninformative this PC Pilot magazine staff about that "Warthog telescopic extension". Probable refer to this: https://warthog-extensions-by-sahaj.com/

Jitters are caused by fault potentiometers, with worm out or with dirt on resistive tracks. CH' have a "Achilles heel": use plug connector in potentiometer wires, what can be loose and cause bad contact, is recommended check and press that connector tabs with pliers, or if have tools/skill apply solder.