Sokol1_br

VirPìl collectives:

Unfortunately will be need cut the legs screws that fit gimbal coil inside the case, what will be a not a easy job even using a powered cutting tool (e.g. Dremel). Anyway the same case cleanup is need in VKB Gladiator and Cobra M5 cases, that are way bigger than Suncom. https://sun9-46.userapi.com/V13prODhWZWv2Xx5c38vx8YbtWA3nnL4fd6jsw/k8im3BrwP9Q.jpg For ones that have a 3D printer and don't care about original aesthetics, make a new case is more practical solution.

Check 3DHubs for quotations, may are a affordable 3D Print service near you: https://www.3dhubs.com/

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Back in time they say that metal shells don't add much cost in grip manufacture, so is probable that price is in $ 200 range.

The spacer idea is an option for avoid re-dimension the gimbal structure, because their area is slight bigger than the small square at top of Suncom box, that measure ~ 76,5x76,5mm and the top o gimbal is 64 x 73mm, but the issue is the gimbal + sensor width ~83mm, so can't bolt the gimbal as is direct to the top of case. In that case can use more length screws in original holes in the case for bolt in the spacer and gimbal together, similar to the way that is used the spacer disk created for VKB Gladiator and Cobra M5: The only difference for Suncon is that the spacer need be square and more ticker. Or just use other screw for fit the spacer in gimbal and the original screws on case in the spacer. I play with this spacer idea in Sketchup and could not the more elegant solution, but seems practical. Other option is redraw the top of the outside gimbal structure, keeping the CAM profiles as is. Under spoiler in OP topic are pictures of Solidworks with some dimensions of gimbal: https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/13252-3d-печатная-механика-объект-77-б/ EDIT - My measures of Suncon case, whitout precise tools: [url=https://postimg.cc/JHZykWXL][img]https://i.postimg.cc/JHZykWXL/Suncom-case.jpg[/img][/url]

From Reddit:

Oops, my only contribution for MMJoy2 was English translation of some early versions and spread the project in every sim forum I know (an half dozen). MMJoy2 firmware author is MegaMOZG, based on previous Mindaugas (2004) MMjoy-8/16. MegaMOZG now work for VirPil as electronic developer.

Probable, F/A-18 grip has the same number of buttons than their A-10/F-16 brother.

Seems you need flash the bootloader: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=497452.0 https://www.coreforge.com/blog/2014/09/recovering-arduino-pro-micro-atmega32u4/

You mean "Object 77-B"? The STL files are not editable? https://cloud.mail.ru/public/X98s/iaWzXBiyr https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KEiArhCy387-mVNiSvKAppua7Tm84rV4/view For use in Suncom original case (what some people want), just need new pole top and an spacer for fill that small square at top of base. EDIT - I can open Object 77-B STL files with Fusion360, but have no idea about what do in this software.

Look in Viperpits, someone adapt pot for guitars.

I have not tried any (but need, have 4 Suncom grips laying there...), but the guys in il2sturmovik.ru say that "Object-77" is a better engineered solution, include can be used - with adaptations, in original Suncom case.

Modify this nut (for extension) drawing, filling the hole and 3D pring. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3936883 An 5/8" PVC tube cap is probable compatible, is the same measure of Gardena connector that people use in the past for make DIY extension.

A Actually several Youtuber's make reviews using FS 2020, that may give an idea about DCS. https://youtu.be/4WzRlPKt4Js https://youtu.be/ZkEk5FTKKGc Just Fly It (Maksim Savelev) did a video with 3090 using DCS and IL-2:GB (in VR). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTtHTMTwEwo

VKB give the usual hint about TECS here, Tuesday. "Soon" ..."200 bucks" (basic version). And that "soon" is just plans, not promise, and the throttle is "strongly different" from the "teaser" renders. Anyway, if followed the pattern of previous products, will be released a limited batch for collect players feedback for the version two. :)

Spitty, Looks very good for the purpose. Even because in those pictures of real throttle difficult you see two equals.

If the sensor "effective electric angle" - in what the voltage varies from 0 to 5V, matches the joystick gimbal angle movement you achieve the full resolution for ADC of USB controller, e.g. 10, 12, 14 bits, or very close. If the sensor used don't varies the voltage from 0 to 5v with the gimbal movement, but less, doing the (obsolete) Windows Game Controllers calibration you have response across al movement, but ending having less than the theoretically possible resolution.

In the lack of better reference*, this drawing have a measure of 10.43" ~265 mm - at left of First Aid kit, this correspond to 188 pixels of the image, that is rough the same of throttle base silhuette. :) A good side view picture of the throttle: https://i.postimg.cc/rs3qtnts/DH-Mosquito-throttle-side-view.jpg * In Key Aero forum /historic aviation are several collectors of planes parts, may someone can help you with measures, back in time a gentleman take measures of Spitfire spade fire button for me. https://www.key.aero/forum/historic-aviation

Gunfighter base was designed for use extension, so no "colateral effect". If 200mm is much, VKB have 50mm and 100mm version - straight.

No, the boost stops are between the two throttle levers (similar to MiG's throttle afterburner stops). The screws is end course adjust. This eBay picture cleared show well the stops: https://i.postimg.cc/hjGtk8tm/Mosqui...ttle-FB-Mk.jpg The sketches show mixture lever (for Merlin 31), like in DCS Mosquito.

By the pictures seems that is need press the levers back for move throttle full open. FB6 Pilot Note's: "The black friction nut is for the throttles: the (larger) white one is for the propeller levers. Normally the throttles can be pushed forward to the stops only. When the small catches on the levers are squeezed the throttles can be pushed fully forward." I guess that "the stops" are those screws. SU carburetors have automatic mixture control. "21. Mixture and slow running cut-out controls (i) S.U. carburettors are fitted and mixture is automatically controlled by the boost pressure ; an economical mixture is obtained when this is less than +7 lb./sq. in."

I think so, the flat part of sensor shaft need to be align with gimbal screw when gimbal are in middle position, or you have less movement for a side.

The expensive (~$100) Midori QP-2H/QP-2HC Hall 'angle' Sensors. Could be that your problem is that sensor placement change during spring change, If I remember well someone have similar problem.