peachmonkey

I'd wager this right there could very well be the culprit. Although 1.6pd even with 3090 is pretty fat, unless your total pixel count (steamvr + ingame pd) = ~2,400x2,400 per eye. On my ryzen5900x + 3090 that's the more or less max resolution I can run the game with acceptable framerate on VivePro2.

yeah, seeing them running around is really cool. The whole flir animation scene is pretty darn close to all of the real footage I saw of the Afghan engagements. Amazing stuff.

i thought one guy looked like he dove away at :24-:25, however the video cuts away, can't tell if he's alive.. most likely it's only splash..

you need assign one more button to flip the gear button "cover". Or click on it with a mouse so it flips open, then you can use the buttons to extend/retract. G button performs the gear cover flip automatically, hence the confusion..

well, he's right in his own regard.. I mean, everyone on this forum is right, just like a broken/stopped analog clock that's correct twice a day. personally, the drawbacks of a lower technical performance in VR are outweighed by the technical immersion of the AC's I fly. - If you want eye candy: go for MSFS, Il2, WT - if you want to experience the prowess of a technical, albeit virtual, mechanical flying machine then there's no substitute for DCS. In DCS VR I know I'm flying and sitting inside a mechanical beast. In all other sims I'm inside a shell with smoke and mirrors.

Everything Apple does integrates with Apple first and foremost. Since there aren't many people gaming on Apple machines due to weak gaming graphics power and thus lack of actual gaming content then whatever apple comes up with in VR dept will most likely be limited to iphone/ipad type of apps. To get in to VR desktop realm they've got a lot of work to do on top of a headset alone.

does the Axis Commands list change/has more controls if you switch to "P47-real" ? nm, Art-J recommended a correct approach for the time being..

thank you!

sorry for an off topic, but a quick question: is there an option to turn the axis sync on? If so, where is it?

1) it only works with axis (if you assigned a button there is no way to 'tune' its axis.) 2) in controls, right-click on the assigned axis and select "tune axis". In the pop window you'll see a 'curvature' slide that you can set...

up to 52inch is the key here... the video shows 56" at 2700

ok, but how do you tie the radio transmission to this particular tower though? Or it's automatic as long as it's somewhere in the trigger zone? Or the trigger zone doesn't matter at all to it?

you're running the engine at 2700 rpm's (past green) and manifold in past green/red mark. In my experience the engine won't last more than 2-3 minutes with these settings without water. Lower the rpm's to the green (2600) and then you can run at higher manifold for 5-10 minutes, or vice versa...

@Vic so one thing I'm not sure I get. Where is the actual radio tower? He's referencing a point that if the tower is destroyed the broadcast will stop. But nowhere in the doc he mentions which tower/where it is. I get the zone, but wouldn't it be attached to a specific tower in game?

awesome, thank you for finding it! I've been flying with Amazon music and even though the song selection is excellent listening to them via actual radio is gonna be so better x10 more. Just need to find the appropriate hour long broadcast now

1) you could buy a complete system from Buttkicker website. It's $200 in USA. https://thebuttkicker.com/products/buttkicker-gamer2-haptic-transducer 2) you could build your own (like @hannibal said above). It's a pretty simple setup: - get a bass transducer (50W minimum, it's literally a low/sub-bass frequency speaker), search on amazon (e.g. Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts) = ~$50 to $60 in USA - get a bass amp (50W for single or 100w for 2 transducers), again on amazon (e.g. Nobsound G2 Subwoofer Power Amplifier Mini Mono SUB Amp 100W). Make sure it comes with a power adapter as some of these amps don't. = ~$50 to $60 in USA - get some speaker wire (anything above 16 gauge is fine, but the thinner the better, less power loss) to connect the amp to the transducer = ~$10 in USA - get some 3.8mm to 3.8mm male-to-male cable so you can connect the little bass amp to your sound card line out port. all this stuff is plug&play, there's no need to solder anything. 3) Get Simshaker software from Andre's webshop, specifically "Simshaker Sound Module". It's a software the receives the telemetry from DCS and then translates it in to Sound, which it then outputs to the bassamp+transducer via your computer soundcard. It processes several telemetry types, i.e. engine beat, afterburner, guns, landing gear, flaps, etc.. etc.. = ~$25 in USA Building your own system allows you to have as many bass shakers as your soul desires. The only catch is you need to have a dedicated sound card for the SimShaker software to work, at least that's how it was when I built it. If you don't have a separate sound card then you buy a USB one for $10 on amazon. I know it's a wall of text, but don't fret, this is all very very simple to setup.

in Dirt Rally there are 2 VR settings: 1) stabilize the horizon (horizon lock) 2) stabilize on the inside of the car (car lock) I found that playing on 2 is similar to flight sims and I have no problems with vertigo. But as soon as it's set to Horizon I get some nasty vomit inducing calls...

Ents are a species of beings in J. R. R. Tolkien's fantasy world Middle-earth who closely resemble trees; their leader is Treebeard of Fangorn forest. They are similar to the talking trees in folklore around the world. Their name is derived from the Old English word for giant. what a buncha nerds..

this point is extremely subjective. I didn't have vertigo playing the flight sims from the start, however racing sims gave me a pretty uneasy feeling, My brother/dad was the other way around, no vertigo while racing, yet an extreme one whilst flying. @Lee1 - if you ever decide to jump in to VR make sure to add a vibration device (transducer), aka as "bass shaker", under the seat. It'll provide a relief for vertigo by reducing the visual/physical feedback disconnect between your eyes and the inner ear.

That'd be amazing! But that's a lot of work for ED. My idea is to give us the 'gaming' damage since I feel it's a lot quicker to adjust the hardness of a model rather than creating a complicated damage model for them. Ultimately, I would love to shoot wheels of the trucks, or put holes in the hull, but how long is that going to take? 10 years?

yeah, I wish ED would introduce a "game resilience" or something along those lines, i.e. reduced damage requirement for the WWII ground and naval units. I dropped 6 x 500lbs bombs on the u-boat (registered as HIT in briefing) and uboat's healthbar was at ~85%. hi, @NineLine , please see above. Is this something your team can explore? We have game flight mode, why not have game mode damage for the AI ground/naval units? It'd make the WWII scenarios a lot more engaging and fulfilling ...

yikes.. this stinks of anti-consumer behavior.

New Year. Same VR complaints. I think it's becoming a tradition. Happy New Year, @BIGNEWY!

hi, @BIGNEWY I have seen settings for the G2 that you've posted in VR section, and I appreciated the transparency. However, they are bare bones. Extremely bare bones. Nobody who plays using the monitor would configure their game to fly like that. Nobody. Yet, they are the recommended settings for VR. I know what I'm about to say is anti-business and laughable in the eyes of the marketing dept, but ED would probably get a lot less grief from the VR community if it were to state that the VR feature is simply "best effort", and the focus is primarily on the Monitor community. Because reading your rebuttal is extremely discouraging. edit: I'm already regretting posting this because I love the game and I'm just a dumb VR optimist. But oh well.

- I twist the rheostat to the max, then back it up couple of degrees and the light stays on without problems (the breaker doesn't pop) - cockpit light switch works ok, the spot lights are engaged - the blue light (UV) also works, although it starts off pretty dim, so you need to twist both left and right light caps to the max in order to get some decent illumination.