Good point, thanks for the info :thumbup:
I suppose though, considering the short burst fire, PAC (if used) and HUD sight, tracers would have very little added value though, no?
Three sounds should be heard from the cannon all in all.
1) The crack high pitched sound of the bullets breaking the sound barrier.
2) The sound of the bullets hitting the ground / target.
3) The sound of the GAU-8 firing.
The chronology of when you hear what all depends on your position related to the target and the cannon at the time.
Your question was already answered on the other thread with the same question you have made. :noexpression:
http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=73602
I'm planning on doing a couple of comparisons to get a good idea of what the differences are with HDR on and off. When I looked at the rising sun on my way to work, DCS comes much closer to the real thing with HDR off.
So with a bit of luck I'll actually play with HDR off without missing out on too much. I sure won't miss the white flashes :)
I don't think this is avoidable. The best thing to do is to use the targeting pod to acquire a target, make it your SPI (TMS up long) and then slave your Maverick to the SPI (China hat forward long). Once this is done, you don't have to slew anymore to get a lock since you can press TMS up short to have the Maverick lock onto the target.
I also have the habbit of sweeping all leftover files and registry entries in safe mode after uninstalling the previous drivers.
Your system not being flakey doesn't necessarily mean that you are in fact also running all the proper files of the latest driver release. If you can have it clean and certain, why not go through the 5 minutes of extra work?
That mainly depends on the game(s). I fear you'll have issues with most games at least on a Windows registry level.
Games like World Of Warcraft will be fine, but for instance, I'm doubting very much that DCS A-10C would be.
That is quite an amount of gamespace you have occupied there by the way. Very impressive :)
This problem has come up in a few other threads.
Perhaps this post can solve your problem. The symptoms seem to be similar enough to the ones discussed in this thread.
I've noticed that if you let it motor for too long before going to idle and motor back to normal, that the engine doesn't start then. Is this working as intended? And if so, what is the reason for this?
Just to be clear: happens often to my wife when she does the ramp start, I'm not that slow! :)