98abaile

Not quite true, below a certain visibility the model is overlaid with a 2D sprite that is larger than the actual model would appear to be.

I believe they already have dedicated server support planned.

+1 It's a PITA to have to scroll left and right constantly when you have many controllers plugged in.

Got to thank you splash, I too have been worrying about how my card will handle and if your 1GB 5870 handles it well, my 4GB 5870 should have no problems at all. :D

I have limited internet at home, so the reason I asked is so that I can get all the modules transferred to open beta, then copy the entire installation to my laptop and have it update to 1.5 at work without having to waste time downloading both the update and then the modules.

As the title states: Is there a way to transfer modules to the open beta without redownloading them? I vaguely remember someone posting instructions on how to do this, but I couldn't find it with the search function.

I'm getting excited now, I can't sit still.

More specifically it's so that you're not fighting the autopilot, the stabilisation channels just smooth out your control inputs. Having the channel buttons lit up turns on stabilisation AND autopilot for that channel. When you press the trimmer button down, it overrides the auto pilot (except the altitude AP, that button is on the collective brake) but not the stabilisation. Releasing the trimmer tells the autopilot that the current reading for the active channels are to be maintained (e.g. release the trimmer with the pitch channel active and the nose pointed 5 degrees down, and the autopilot with try to maintain a 5 degree nose down pitch with 20% control authority). Basically you hold the trimmer, point the aircraft in the direction you want and release the trimmer, the autopilot will then try and hold that heading/attitude/altitude. You would need to hold down the trimmer if you wanted to fly manually, otherwise you would be fighting the autopilot. Alternatively, turn on the desired channels for stability and then turn on flight director, this gives you the stability channels but overrides all the autopilot functions; it also means the trimmer just works like a normal helicopter stick trimmer.

Hey Sgt Baker, what can we expect from uMFCD when DCS 1.5 gets released?

Keep the stick for now, go for the TIR instead. The FFB is very good plus the game lets you use shift keys. Set the 4 on the base as shift keys and used in combinations (I think you can have more than 2 shifts pushed in combination), you'll have either 122 possible button inputs (if the hat is a 4 way hat) or 154 (if it's an 8 way hat).

Yeah, sounds like rotor collision. Why are you not using autopilot? If you are struggling against it, turn on the flight director (keeps stability channels on but overrides the autopilot); also watch some videos on the autopilot, it's not quite the same as using a trimmer.

Next time she brings it up: "Well honey let's talk about your wardrobe/shoes/car/the crap she buys to do nothing but inhabit kitchen cupboards..."

I recall reading that someone tried that and couldn't get it to work.

Nothing actually. With the sidewinder grip disconnected, the motors stay energized. When I get to creating the button box for the disconnected buttons, I'll have the LED and photosensor taped to each other inside the box and a switch to turn off the LED to energise the motors.

I use the original power supply. The sidewinder base uses all the original electronics (with the stick disconnected), the teensy only connects to the FLCS grip.

I bought a sidewinder a while ago and had some great fun with it flying the huey, the problem was that when I wanted to start learning the Ka50, I needed more buttons. Originally this project started as an attempt to merge my sidewinder with my old X52pro that was made redundant by my warthog. The problem was that all the information I could find was on wiring up the regular X52 which is wired differently to the pro. The pro I'm lead to believe uses shift registers, so a bit more research brings me to a thread where a guy has managed to mount an F16 FLCS to the sidewinder and connected it with a teensy 2.0. I managed to get the X52pro mounted but new problem arose as I couldn't figure out what wires I needed to connect from the X52pro; after much frustration and a joystick now in bits needing a partial rewire, I gave up and just ordered an FLCS on ebay. I also used a teensy 3.1 instead due to the 2.0 being unavailable here in the UK from official suppliers and a I didn't want to risk it with a chinese knock off. Mounting the stick it turned out was fairly easy, the shaft on the sidewinder is near enough bang on 14mm, so I ordered a 14mm bit online and bored out the FLCS shaft. It fits quite snugly and can be attached without glue (although you can still twist it out of alignment obviously), you can comfortably pick the whole thing up by the grip without the grip coming off. Unlike the guy in the thread, I deliberately left the shaft long; partly because I didn't know how long I wanted it and obviously for the greater control of a longer shaft. I only had to cut off a small square block at the bottom. There is only a slight problem, due to having to drill by hand without a drill press, the inner bore is at a slight angle, not enough that you'd notice it if you didn't know about it (I only knew about it because I looked down the bore and saw an offset shelf). Getting it all to work with the teensy was where I had most of the problems (or so I thought). I followed all the instructions in the thread, tried and modified several different sketches, found a different thread with more details about what settings to use, tried resoldering it to use 3V instead of 5V, tried contacting the guy who'd got it to work with the 3.1. Nothing worked. After getting quite frustrated, I decided to take the grip apart to see if there was a loose connection (also I'd decide to turn the shaft around so that the slight angle tilted the stick towards me rather than away, not really necessary, but I had it apart anyway) and lo and behold, it turned out that when reassembling the grip back onto the shaft, I'd accidentally driven one of the screws through the ribbon cable. A quick rewire later and it works perfectly. At a later date I'll create a button box for the buttons and pot on the removed sidewinder grip. This should also allow me to wire in a switch for the FFB motors and solve a floating rudder axis problem. I may also add a couple of extra pots onto the teensy since the guy in the thread posted code for them. That'll come after I've finished making a stick and throttle stand from PVC piping though. The code I ended up using: #include <SPI.h> const int ss = 10; unsigned int buttonInputs1; // data read from SPI unsigned int buttonInputs2; unsigned int buttonInputs3; #define PINKY !(buttonInputs1 & 0x80) /* Pinky Switch */ #define TG1 !(buttonInputs1 & 0x40) /* Trigger 1 */ #define TG2 !(buttonInputs1 & 0x20) /* Trigger 2 */ #define S1 !(buttonInputs1 & 0x10) /* Nose Wheel Steering */ #define PADDLE !(buttonInputs1 & 0x08) /* Paddle Switch */ #define THUMB !(buttonInputs1 & 0x04) /* Pickle */ #define H1D !(buttonInputs2 & 0x80) /* HAT */ #define H1R !(buttonInputs2 & 0x40) #define H1U !(buttonInputs2 & 0x20) #define H1L !(buttonInputs2 & 0x10) #define H4U !(buttonInputs2 & 0x08) /* Castle */ #define H4L !(buttonInputs2 & 0x04) #define H4D !(buttonInputs2 & 0x02) #define H4R !(buttonInputs2 & 0x01) #define H3D !(buttonInputs3 & 0x80) /* Weap */ #define H3R !(buttonInputs3 & 0x40) #define H3U !(buttonInputs3 & 0x20) #define H3L !(buttonInputs3 & 0x10) #define H2D !(buttonInputs3 & 0x08) /* Target */ #define H2R !(buttonInputs3 & 0x04) #define H2U !(buttonInputs3 & 0x02) #define H2L !(buttonInputs3 & 0x01) void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); Serial.println("USB Joystick analyser"); pinMode (ss, OUTPUT); SPI.begin(); Joystick.useManualSend(true); } void loop() { SPISettings settingsA(1000000, MSBFIRST, SPI_MODE0); SPI.beginTransaction(settingsA); digitalWrite(ss,LOW); // reading only, so data sent does not matter buttonInputs1 = SPI.transfer(0x00); buttonInputs2 = SPI.transfer(0x00); buttonInputs3 = SPI.transfer(0x00); digitalWrite(ss,HIGH); SPI.endTransaction(); Joystick.button(1, TG1); Joystick.button(2, THUMB); Joystick.button(3, PINKY); Joystick.button(4, PADDLE); Joystick.button(5, S1); Joystick.button(6, TG2); Joystick.button(7, H2U); Joystick.button(8, H2R); Joystick.button(9, H2D); Joystick.button(10, H2L); Joystick.button(11, H3U); Joystick.button(12, H3R); Joystick.button(13, H3D); Joystick.button(14, H3L); Joystick.button(15, H4U); Joystick.button(16, H4R); Joystick.button(17, H4D); Joystick.button(18, H4L); int angle = -1; if (H1U) { if (H1R) { angle = 45; } else if (H1L) { angle = 315; } else { angle = 0; } } else if (H1D) { if (H1R) { angle = 135; } else if (H1L) { angle = 225; } else { angle = 180; } } else if (H1R) { angle = 90; } else if (H1L) { angle = 270; } Joystick.hat(angle); Joystick.send_now(); }

How did you connect the grip to the sidewinder?

I'd say all you'd need to do is take the original design and add a thin concave disc about the same diameter as the autopilot button and have it sit relatively close to the case. As an example, imagine filing down the end of the nub and gluing a shirt button on top of it. All you really need is something that you can put your finger on and get decent finger tip control.

Fantastic news. Welcome back.

Very interested in the mechanism for the throttle. Let us know when that tutorial is up.

Search the forums for how to assign toggle switches, should be a thread about assigning toggle switches to the warthog throttle. Basically if the zero position is acting as a switch then with a little easy .lua editing you should be able to assign functions to both the press and unpress actions.

It could be that the new computer is using different device IDs for your devices than the old computer. Connect all your devices and make a small change to the configuration, this should create a new device config file with the device ID in the filename. Just copy and paste that new ID onto the old file and it should work. EDIT: I should clarify that the joystick config files will be found in "C:\Users\Orso\Saved Games\DCS\Config\Input\P-51D\joystick".

Do you ever find that the desk gets in the way?

Yes, when you hold the trimmer button down all autopilot input is stopped until you release the button. This could be causing those symptoms.

Did anyone capture a screenshot of the afterburner? My stream pooped out just as he was taking off.