Sabre_Ewan

I too have been using TrackIR 5 for many years with no problems. If you know of a solution that's so superior, maybe you should develop it yourself and make a lot of money? And if you really want a big heavy computer with a large screen that isn't portable... buy a desktop. Laptops are small and light because the whole point of a laptop is to be small, light and mobile.

The links don't work for me either. 404 on both.

:music_whistling: The AK-47 and AK-12 are totally different calibres.

There was recently a very generous free trial of almost every module in DCS, for over a month. And a 50% off everything sale at the same time. From what was said after that one, it seems like they'll be more open to doing trials in the future. Maybe it'll happen again. Nobody else here can tell you whether or not you think the modules are worth the money, but for me, they are. I've bought a couple of modules that I've almost never flown, and obviously those ones so far haven't been worth it (but I mostly bought those on sale). I also bought the F-16 when it was 50% off, and it isn't really at the level I'd like yet. But over the next couple of years they'll add the rest of the stuff to it, and I'll still own it then. :)

If you want to map it to a button on your joystick, then you need to map it to a button on your joystick. It's a function of the software, not the game.

The computer wakes from the screensaver when you move the mouse or press a key, right? I don't know, but it seems plausible that input from a USB device would do the same thing. And if you have CH pedals, there'll likely be constant jitter and change in the axis. This could be interpreted as activity, which will prevent the screen saver from activating. But it's just an idea.

Yeah it's just like normal 'zoom' binoculars. In games they're usually represented as two overlapping circles, but in reality you only see one circle.

It's your memory playing tricks on you, that's how it always been.

:lol: And you wonder why people have a problem with you here. You're supposed to be the community manager for the company who sell the Mirage. You really should know these things and be able to answer the questions.

The axis doesn't move the throttle from off to idle, you have to use a button. Defaults are right shift + home for right engine. right alt + home for left.

I'm not sure about how it's supposed to function, but this is how it used to work for me... Undesignate removes the designated target, but leaves the pod in place. Cage/Uncage boresights the pod.

You've resurrected an 11 year old thread. Of course an old file sharing link doesn't work. :doh:

Should have told ED that before they unleashed 2.5.6!

I don't have any encoders on my controls yet, but if I did I'd use them for radio controls, lights, course knob, RWR volume in the F18. I've never messed with any of that kind of thing, but surely it would also be possible to set them up to work as an axis. So an 'up' turn increases a virtual axis and a 'down' decreases it.

Obviously this doesn't actually help. But my friend and I both fly the Hornet in VR with the Rift S. Neither of us have ever had this problem. To me, the HUD is on the glass as you'd expect.

So for anyone who doesn't understand Russian... Is virpil developing a collective?

Ok, I've resent the email, plus something about the USB throttle.

Is it only the microstick itself that you'd need, and would the throttle still work without it? I don't use the stick because it's awful, so I could sacrifice it for the cause. PS. still waiting for a reply to my most recent email, 2 and a half weeks ago ;)

They're still working on a solution for people who bought on steam. Hopefully won't be too long, but for now you just have to wait.

They can't give you an answer because as they've just stated twice, the combined arms integration is yet to be confirmed.

Yep. Paid with paypal. They've definitely improved a lot since they started shipping from Lithuania. I ordered my T-50 base and original grip when everything was still coming straight from Belarus. Then "In Stock" just meant "maybe we'll ship it in a month or two". Luckily they seem to have fixed some things and now they operate it like a real online shop. A much better shopping experience, and the products have always been great. :)

If you look in accessories on the shop, they now offer a mounting plate like the warbrd one, and the baseplate of the Warthog. The original T-50 isn't listed as compatible, but I asked and Cypher told me that it is. The VAT should be added at checkout, and it will be whatever VAT is in Germany. For example in the UK I paid 20% on top of the listed price. I recently bought a CM2. Ordered 14th of November, despatched 15th. Arrived here in UK 19th if I remember correctly. Edit: Sorry just saw that you linked the same thing. :) But from what he told me, I wouldn't expect to have any problems using it.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but can you tell me what you prefer about the older throttle please? I intend to get one at some point, and I actually think I prefer the newer one. Just wondered if you have anything that would change my mind.

I don't know whether you'd be using Thrustmaster software or the VPC software, but generally stick software allows you to choose which button is which number. So while it might only allow buttons 1 to 19, you choose which buttons ARE 1 to 19. I know that the VPC and CH software works like this. I also have the original T-50 and there's no notchiness at all. On mine at least, there's no noticeable change while switching between X and Y axes. Smooth all the way. :) I upgraded from a CH stick where the two axes are totally different things, so I know what you're talking about!

So from what Sokol says, it seems that you can choose which buttons to use and which to leave off, up to the total supported by the base. The only thing that definitely won't work is the analogue brake lever. Edit: I haven't tried it. And the Virpil bases are amazing. I have tried those. :)