Introducing the VPC MongoosT-50

[Gizzy]

T-50 has 8 POV inputs and 19 Buttons, all DX direct inputs seen by the Windows / DCS in the same manner as the TMWH.

 

As I understand it, Virpil software calibration is stored within the device.

 

You may also need to calibrate the device in Windows AFTER calibrating in the software - this depends on settings current within Windows OS for that device.

 

 

After calibrating and saving the profile within the software, I had to additionally calibrate in Windows before the pinky axis worked correctly and, on another occasion, after replacing an axis PCB both calibrations were needed.

 

Use the Virpil software as described in their video. Flashing wrong firmware may brick the device which then requires a dismantle and a pin short to reset.

 

I use multiple input devices and T-50 is the best yet.... and support is solid, sure slow at times but good. Thrustmaster support over the years I have found to be very good and just as slow ha ha ha.... I think we just exoect more... :)

Edited June 1, 2018 by Gizzy

[Sokol1_br]

As I understand it, Virpil software calibration is stored within the device.

 

You may also need to calibrate the device in Windows AFTER calibrating in the software - this depends on settings current within Windows OS for that device.

 

 

After calibrating and saving the profile within the software, I had to additionally calibrate in Windows before the pinky axis worked correctly and, on another occasion, after replacing an axis PCB both calibrations were needed.

 

 

Indeed the calibration is stored in controller firmware, and should not use Windows calibration after, this will defeat the purpose of calibration in firmware.

 

If you are having problems with brake lever axis should contact VirPil about.

[dburne]

I would highly recommend users do not try to calibrate in Windows.

Some folks have really messed up their sticks trying this - Virpil can get them squared away, but it can certainly cause issues.

[Flamin_Squirrel]

I would highly recommend users do not try to calibrate in Windows.

Some folks have really messed up their sticks trying this - Virpil can get them squared away, but it can certainly cause issues.

 

That's down to the brake right? IIRC just hold it down before you start calibration to get around that issue.

[Gizzy]

I....

 

 

I'm having no issues at all, but like I said my process worked fine for me.

 

After axis PCB swap and software calibration the centre was way off, windows calibration solved it, but hey, whatever works for you.

[Seb71]

I'm having no issues at all, but like I said my process worked fine for me.

 

After axis PCB swap and software calibration the centre was way off, windows calibration solved it, but hey, whatever works for you.

But have you previously made a Windows calibration? Before replacing that sensor PCB.

[sze5003]

Is there a user guide on their site or forums? Others mentioned the brake lever will not calibrate in windows calibration.

 

Im waiting on the warBRD and a t50 grip so I wonder if the software will be the same or require a different procedure.

[mr_mojo97]

Hey all, finally got my mongoose base today to use with my Warthog and on the whole I’m very happy.

It did take me a good while to get it calibrated correctly, but that’s correctly done now.

 

Roll axis is fine, nice and smooth and so is pitching down, but when I pull the stick all the way back and then back to the middle there is a definite - not quite a clunk - but as if there is something not fitting correctly in the gimbal central position for this axis.

I don’t really want to take the thing to bits on the first day of receiving it. Anyone else have this problem or any ideas what this may be?

Thanks

[sea2sky]

but when I pull the stick all the way back and then back to the middle there is a definite - not quite a clunk - but as if there is something not fitting correctly in the gimbal central position for this axis.

I don’t really want to take the thing to bits on the first day of receiving it. Anyone else have this problem or any ideas what this may be?

Thanks

 

 

I would open and check it. You need to open (and it does not void the warranty) it anyways in order to replace the default springs with the softer ones. (I found the default ones are too stiff, and soft ones - just perfect).

[Abburo]

Yes... I had it too.

 

The screws which holds the cam get loose. Because of this the cam is clipping from one side to other generating that metalic click. Check for both axes and put some Loctite lock on them. Loctite is best because it also allows you unscrew if needed without destroying the screw head.

[Gizzy]

......Anyone else have this problem or any ideas what this may be?Thanks

 

 

If the top plate axis adjusting screws are loosened beyond a certain point slack can cause noise or a clunk. Tighten both axis some and see if this helps.

[MustangSally]

Just pulled the trigger on a T50 with base (Black edition). Site says in stock so hoping it should be here in the next 14 days.

[Sabre_Ewan]

Just pulled the trigger on a T50 with base (Black edition). Site says in stock so hoping it should be here in the next 14 days.

 

 

 

I fear your definition of 'in stock' and also of '14 days' will be different from theirs.

 

Nevertheless, it will be well worth the wait, it's an excellent stick and base.

[mr_mojo97]

My t-50 is losing axis settings when I reboot my system although the button presses are still working. This has happened twice now (I’ve saved the profile in the software) I really hope I don’t have to keep recalibrating this before each blast on DCS!)

[Boris]

How would one go about mounting the T-50 base to a flat wooden surface?

[Len62]

How would one go about mounting the T-50 base to a flat wooden surface?

 

You can't mount the base directly to the surface, it's not designed to be bottom mounted. You can see in the photo how I constructed a mount that keeps the bottom of the base slightly above the flat wood surface.

[mdee]

Just pulled the trigger on a T50 with base (Black edition). Site says in stock so hoping it should be here in the next 14 days.

 

I'd not count on that. They might send it in 14 days if they manage to make it. I think by "in stock" they mean, "yes, we can possibly make it". I hope for you that I am wrong here, but this was my experience.

 

The stick is very good tho.

[MustangSally]

I'd not count on that. They might send it in 14 days if they manage to make it. I think by "in stock" they mean, "yes, we can possibly make it". I hope for you that I am wrong here, but this was my experience.

 

The stick is very good tho.

 

After reading this thread, I'm getting the impression that "In Stock" means we have the components but assembly will take around 14days with EMS taking another 14 days to arrive!! I would think that with a unit as expensive as the T50 and being "In Stock", post/pack should not take any longer than 2 days?

 

I ordered a set of VKB T-Rudders from X-Plane.org on the 29 May, they shipped on the 30th and arrived today (USPS Florida to Aus). Now that is service!

 

Where's Cyph3r when you need him....hasn't been on since 18th May

Edited June 6, 2018 by MustangSally

[cordite]

They list the lead time for each item, which is as much as 14 days, even if it’s in stock. Who knows what the lead time is actually for; but it’s still better than what you might face with the closest competition.

 

The wait should be worth it.

[Karon]

Where's Cyph3r when you need him....hasn't been on since 18th May

 

 

Don't tell me. It takes at least 4-7 to get a reply. Sometimes even more.

[dburne]

They list the lead time for each item, which is as much as 14 days, even if it’s in stock. Who knows what the lead time is actually for; but it’s still better than what you might face with the closest competition.

 

The wait should be worth it.

 

Yep way better, and it is worth it.

[mdee]

After reading this thread, I'm getting the impression that "In Stock" means we have the components but assembly will take around 14days with EMS taking another 14 days to arrive!! I would think that with a unit as expensive as the T50 and being "In Stock", post/pack should not take any longer than 2 days?

 

I ordered a set of VKB T-Rudders from X-Plane.org on the 29 May, they shipped on the 30th and arrived today (USPS Florida to Aus). Now that is service!

 

Where's Cyph3r when you need him....hasn't been on since 18th May

 

Yes, that's how it feels like

It's different sales standards to what you (and I) are used to. Fulfillment time is measured in weeks (fast) and months (relatively slow) and years (slow)

Again, stick is good, if it's worth the wait it's up to you.

Edited June 6, 2018 by mdee

[sze5003]

I already paid off my warBRD and t50 grip so I may as well wait now. Of course I can have them ship the grip but the point is to use the new base and discontinue the use of my Warthog base.

[Boris]

You can't mount the base directly to the surface, it's not designed to be bottom mounted. You can see in the photo how I constructed a mount that keeps the bottom of the base slightly above the flat wood surface.

 

Why does the bottom of the base need to be kept above the surface?

 

That's a bit of a shame. It'll make the stick more challenging to integrate into my setup. Is it possible to mount the stick in the opposite direction and reverse the axes? Maybe with an extension, as you can just twist the cable?

[Len62]

Why does the bottom of the base need to be kept above the surface?

 

That's a bit of a shame. It'll make the stick more challenging to integrate into my setup. Is it possible to mount the stick in the opposite direction and reverse the axes? Maybe with an extension, as you can just twist the cable?

 

IIRC the base was not designed to withstand any direct pressure, hence no bottom mount. I think someone else was successful mounting in the opposite direction and reversing the axis. The new WarBRD mount is designed for flat mounting. https://virpil.com/en/shop/sticks/vpc-warbrd-vpc