talk me into water cooling

[Harlikwin]

 

What would USB connection do? Control it? Ohhhh... to control the LED.... :doh:

 

Looks to also be able to use external software to control the pump better in the case of the coolermaster ones from what I can tell. I got a internal USB splitter so hopefully that will work fine.

[Outlaw24]

Never been a big fan of the AIO coolers, strictly air, with Noctua big coolers and fans in the push pull configuration and good case ventilation works for me.

[Bob_Bushman]

After my h115i starting exhibiting some rather odd behaviour I too am no longer much of a fan of AIO's.

I suspect I knocked loose a bubble when cleaning the rad, and first noticed spiking reservoir temps, then out of the blue cpu could spike from 28c idle to 100c and auto shutdown.

I switched to a Dark Rock emergency cooler and, yes it is slightly higher than the massive AIO, it is well beyond good temps.

 

If I was to go water again, I would go the more custom loop route with a reservoir and clear hoses so I could actually see flow and have a reservoir larger than a thimble and half.

 

Although strictly speaking, water cooling is just air cooling with extra steps imo.

Edited October 9, 2020 by Bob_Bushman

[Harlikwin]

Well my hilarious journey with water-cooling has thus far resulted in:

 

Having to dremel the shit out of my case to remove a CD drive bay that was RIVITED into place.

 

Mis-reconnecting my power/reset pins

 

And now, I can't get the 'ing Corsair software to actually detect the cooler. No, not for fancy grafix, so I can actually control the pump or fans which just seem to go to 100% by default (I mean its a good way to fail I guess).

 

The latest greatest version just dies and exits

An older version does detect my Corsair ram, but not the damn cooler.

 

I did pull the fans off the pump header cable, and just connected them to the motherboard which at least lets them run kinda normally, but the pump is still whirring away at 4k RPM continuously.

 

Anyone have any experience with the corsair software?

[Bossco82]

I might be able to help, have you tried using the USB connection without a splitter?

I had a problem with this ages ago and it was when I switched from an Antec AIO to a Corsair one. There was a conflict in the USB drivers somewhere.

I have the latest version of Corsair software working fine on Win 10 but I dont use a USB splitter, mine is connected on its own to the motherboard.

I would try it without the USB splitter.

Also try downloading the USB drivers for your motherboard and re-install them.

Finally even without the Corsair software installed the fans should run off the pump connections they will just run at 100% if the software does not control them. As for the pump I think it has a fixed speed. For example mine reports 2272-2292 rpm and does not change with the temperature.

[Fri13]

The beauty of the water cooling was that you got to easily transfer the heat somewhere else, further from the case. So you could really make the basic overclocking easily possible as you used larger cooler somewhere outside of the case. There are of course always the extreme overclocking with cooling using liquid nitrogen and all that, but you don't need water cooling system for that, and especially considering it is not to run typical use scenarios.

 

I do prefer the air cooler, even when I have AIO myself. There are the concerns for the extra points for failures, but IMHO not in such changes that it would be meaningful really.

But if one has space for the huge air cooling unit, it is good way to go.

 

My reasoning was simply the noise and the temperature. I compared AIO and a large air cooler and got better from AIO by the sound as by the temperatures.

 

AFAIK it is better to let the pump run at full speed continuously and not let it to be throttled by the software, it is little bit same as with other heating solutions from buildings to cars and such, as more risks for problems when RPM is altered.

 

And of course for anyone doing any critical jobs, it is better to have good failsafes and test them periodically. Like disconned the AIO pump suddenly to see how the failsafes gets activated etc. So testing for the worst case scenario by the mechanical malfunction is easy.

The worst scenario really is leak and liquid on the electronics, and that is whole own topic to solve so it wouldn't happen bad way.

[Taz1004]

Well my hilarious journey with water-cooling has thus far resulted in:

 

Having to dremel the shit out of my case to remove a CD drive bay that was RIVITED into place.

 

Mis-reconnecting my power/reset pins

 

And now, I can't get the 'ing Corsair software to actually detect the cooler. No, not for fancy grafix, so I can actually control the pump or fans which just seem to go to 100% by default (I mean its a good way to fail I guess).

 

The latest greatest version just dies and exits

An older version does detect my Corsair ram, but not the damn cooler.

 

I did pull the fans off the pump header cable, and just connected them to the motherboard which at least lets them run kinda normally, but the pump is still whirring away at 4k RPM continuously.

 

Anyone have any experience with the corsair software?

 

Well, you're making me think twice about today's AIO. Used to be simple. Just connect to fan header and power. No USB. Pump was throttled through CPU fan header just like default HSF fan speed is throttled. So no more complicated than HSF.

It sounds like they've made it unnecessarily complex. They're adding more points of failure. It's not only USB but the software too.

Edited October 9, 2020 by Taz1004

[Svsmokey]

Well my hilarious journey with water-cooling has thus far resulted in:

 

Having to dremel the shit out of my case to remove a CD drive bay that was RIVITED into place.

 

Mis-reconnecting my power/reset pins

 

And now, I can't get the 'ing Corsair software to actually detect the cooler. No, not for fancy grafix, so I can actually control the pump or fans which just seem to go to 100% by default (I mean its a good way to fail I guess).

 

The latest greatest version just dies and exits

An older version does detect my Corsair ram, but not the damn cooler.

 

I did pull the fans off the pump header cable, and just connected them to the motherboard which at least lets them run kinda normally, but the pump is still whirring away at 4k RPM continuously.

 

Anyone have any experience with the corsair software?

 

Looks like it's a common problem .

https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&ei=V-mAX_SWIsGusAXDtIf4Ag&q=corsair+software+not+detecting+aio&oq=corsair+software+not+detecting+aio&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAM6BAgAEEc6BwgAELEDEEM6AggAOgoIABCxAxDJAxBDOgQIABBDOggIABCxAxCDAToFCAAQsQM6CwgAELEDEIMBEMkDOggIABCxAxDJAzoFCAAQyQM6BggAEBYQHjoFCCEQoAE6BQghEKsCOggIIRAWEB0QHlC-Rljo0wJggdQCaAJwAXgAgAHAAYgB4COSAQQzLjM0mAEAoAEByAEIwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

[LucShep]

Well, you're making me think twice about today's AIO. Used to be simple. Just connect to fan header and power. No USB. Pump was throttled through CPU fan header just like default HSF fan speed is throttled. So no more complicated than HSF.

It sounds like they've made it unnecessarily complex. They're adding more points of failure. It's not only USB but the software too.

 

 

AFAIK, the only AIOs that correspond to such simplicity are the Arctic Freezer II, and why I recommended them in the first place in my previous post in this thread.

That's really the only AIO series I would consider if you're a die hard air-cooling guy like I am, but curious enough to try an AIO with the least fuss possible. Seems to be excepcional as well.

[BitMaster]

Looks like it's a common problem .

https://www.google.com/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&ei=V-mAX_SWIsGusAXDtIf4Ag&q=corsair+software+not+detecting+aio&oq=corsair+software+not+detecting+aio&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAM6BAgAEEc6BwgAELEDEEM6AggAOgoIABCxAxDJAxBDOgQIABBDOggIABCxAxCDAToFCAAQsQM6CwgAELEDEIMBEMkDOggIABCxAxDJAzoFCAAQyQM6BggAEBYQHjoFCCEQoAE6BQghEKsCOggIIRAWEB0QHlC-Rljo0wJggdQCaAJwAXgAgAHAAYgB4COSAQQzLjM0mAEAoAEByAEIwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

 

That's the ONE reason why I make a 5 mile detour around Corsair products that need their BS software, their software sucks for years.

 

KEEP IT SIMPLE ! This pays back in many many ways. Look at servers, if they#D run Corsair or any of those badly programmed software from other vendors, they'd crash every other occasion...and they don't as they are kept as sleek as possible. Follow that approach with every Computer yu run is my honest advice :smartass:

 

They promise a lot and don't deliver, again and again. So sad.

 

I am happy my Custom DIY WC Loop does not need any software to function, neither does my Logitech mouse, keyboard or other peripheral but the AXi1200. I can skip the AX"i" features and still enjoy my rig day & night ;)

[speed-of-heat]

That's the ONE reason why I make a 5 mile detour around Corsair products that need their BS software, their software sucks for years.

 

KEEP IT SIMPLE ! This pays back in many many ways. Look at servers, if they#D run Corsair or any of those badly programmed software from other vendors, they'd crash every other occasion...and they don't as they are kept as sleek as possible. Follow that approach with every Computer yu run is my honest advice :smartass:

 

They promise a lot and don't deliver, again and again. So sad.

 

I am happy my Custom DIY WC Loop does not need any software to function, neither does my Logitech mouse, keyboard or other peripheral but the AXi1200. I can skip the AX"i" features and still enjoy my rig day & night ;)

 

I love the Corsair products but their software definitely sucks, it eats CPU time as well

[Mars Exulte]

If water cooling, get a case that actually supports putting a radiator the size you want in the place you want. I know I know, reading manuals is really unpopular, but it's reaaaaallllllly a good idea. Also, give some real thought to thin vs thick radiators in your planning, cause not all 120 rads are created equal, as I found out to my chagrin.

 

 

Aside from that, water cooling makes your PC more better

[Gladman]

I water cool because its effective and if I'm honest, I really like the look of it. The computer in my room is a piece of art and I enjoy creating it. Sure, there's air systems just as effective but it doesn't have the wow factor I want when I come into my room.

[BitMaster]

I can say that I never regretted to get the external radiator from watercool.de called Mo-Ra3.

 

Forget the hassle with in-case tubing, pump inside, Reservoir inside, none of that. It makes it cleaner, sleeker, less risk of leaks inside as rad-pump-res are outside the case, less weight for the case too. Get 2 Quick Connectors pairs from Koolance and you can detach the rad ( with pump and res ) in 2 seconds for lifting or moving around. It also allows the use of a few BIG fans ( 4x 180mm for the 360 version ) instead of 9x 120mm in my scenario. The Mo-Ra3-420 even allows the use of 4x 200mm fans compared to many smaller fans. You could get 4x 200mm Noctua and steal the show while remaining super quiet even at the highest load.

 

http://www.watercool.de click the EN/UK flag to get the page in english. Their stuff is absolut premium quality throughout.

 

I love WC but would never put the rads inside and do that hour long tubing inside. I am more the ease of use guy, flexible tubing.

 

As a tip, get a UV bulb for inside the case and route some tubing next to it, helps to kill all bacteria in your loop ;)

https://www.amazon.de/Sharkoon-Kaltlichtkathode-2in1-UV-PC-Beleuchtung/dp/B0002Q9HMY in german but shows what I use

Edited October 10, 2020 by BitMaster

[Harlikwin]

I might be able to help, have you tried using the USB connection without a splitter?

I had a problem with this ages ago and it was when I switched from an Antec AIO to a Corsair one. There was a conflict in the USB drivers somewhere.

I have the latest version of Corsair software working fine on Win 10 but I dont use a USB splitter, mine is connected on its own to the motherboard.

I would try it without the USB splitter.

Also try downloading the USB drivers for your motherboard and re-install them.

Finally even without the Corsair software installed the fans should run off the pump connections they will just run at 100% if the software does not control them. As for the pump I think it has a fixed speed. For example mine reports 2272-2292 rpm and does not change with the temperature.

 

Thanks for the tips.

My pump is running like 4800 rpm, which seems high but point taken on just keeping things at one speed.

 

Usb is actually on a free header i found in the case so no splitter. I also tried to plug it into a known good external USB port. Interestingly this resulted in a very different light show pattern on the cooler block but still not recognized. On the plus side i can control the fans off the regular fan headers on the mobo and it looks like A-tune is probably a better option than the corsair software there. So I mainly want it for the pump control.

 

Ill try reinstalling the USB drivers but ive had no issue with like a dozen sticks and throttles connected.

 

As for the other comments, it was stupid simple to install once I dremeld my case to remove drive bay cages but thats not Corsairs fault.