GGTharos Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 (edited) Really? Are you absolutely certain? I never use trim reset. ;) The beta testers did want the unrealistic trim reset function, because they messed up with the rudder trim to often. Edited August 16, 2009 by GGTharos [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Reminder: SAM = Speed Bump :D I used to play flight sims like you, but then I took a slammer to the knee - Yoda
lion737 Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 you are right - reset is nonsense ! (...and why is it implemented ?)
GGTharos Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 ... I am right, you were saying something you knew nothing about. As for the actual reset, I'm certain there was a reason. I'm not sure why you're complaining about it - if you don't like it, don't use it. Complaining about it isn't going to help your rudder issue. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Reminder: SAM = Speed Bump :D I used to play flight sims like you, but then I took a slammer to the knee - Yoda
lion737 Posted August 16, 2009 Posted August 16, 2009 (edited) ... I am right, you were saying something you knew nothing about. As for the actual reset, I'm certain there was a reason. You don´t know the reason, but tell me I don´t know nothing about it ????? PS: i didn´t complain about the reset function. you got that wrong. Edited August 16, 2009 by lion737
Albatros Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Please may I introduce my idea what I think would be a good new trimmer logic, and adaptive for all configurations: Same as the old logic, with a slight difference. After the "HelicopterTrimmerTauInverse" is over, the actual Stick Position is the new Zero Position. If someone put the stick back to center, its from center. If someone move to another position, it's from there. If someone doesn't move at all, it's like before the trimming act and nothing happens. In every case the player only have to keep the stick quiet after "HelicopterTrimmerTauInverse", and nothing happens, instead of having to keep the stick quiet and being at a certain position (the center) like in the old logic.
PoleCat Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) I think with practice you can easily learn to fly with either the new trimmer implemented in the patch by switch or the old trimmer logic. I do not have a FF stick setup and both of these trimmer modes are still quite managable. No need to use the trim reset if you prefer not to. If you opt not to use the trim reset at all how can it be an issue by being an option for others to use if they like? The trimmer in either mode is not a big problem at all for most. It just takes practice like flying the KA-50 in general IMHO. Out Edited August 17, 2009 by PoleCat http://www.104thphoenix.com/
joey45 Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 I have the X52 and use the old trim config.. The amount of times ive crashed and nearly crashed with the new one is unreal.. The only way to make sense out of change is to plunge into it, move with it, and join the dance. "Me, the 13th Duke of Wybourne, here on the ED forums at 3 'o' clock in the morning, with my reputation. Are they mad.." https://ko-fi.com/joey45
Snacko Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Yea, I'm finally just going to stick with the old trimmer. I have crashed too many times with this new one because my stick stops responding completely, probably because the game thinks I did not re-center it enough. When I am spinning towards the ground, I don't need the game requiring me to let go of the stick. Snack Officer Intel I9-10850K (OC @ 5.0ghz) │ 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3200 │Gigabyte RTX 4090 Gaming OC 24gb - ҉ - Blackshark Cockpit Trainer - ҉ - ♣ Thread | ♥ Download
EinsteinEP Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) Have to recenter cyclic and rudder pedals, not just cyclic. As the OP pointed out, the Trimmer works on both. If you don't center the rudder at the same time as your cyclic, the new Trimmer method will continue to lock out your inputs. Going back to the old method will prevent the Trimmer from "freezing" the controls due to the inputs not being centered, but you may experience control "bump", where the controls will seem to jump in one direction or the other after you trim. If you fail to recenter the rudder pedals, it'll seem like the helicopter is suddenly adding torque all on its own. If you encounter this problem, press rctrl+Enter to view the virtual controls display - look for the difference in where your rudder inputs are (on your rudder pedals or twist stick) compared to what's been trimmed in (on the controls display). For an immediate fix, simply adjust the rudder input until the virtual input is centered then trim. For a long-term fix, practice using the Trimmer with the rudder pedals so that no "extra" inputs are trimmed in. This may take some conscious effort, so have patience and good luck! Edited August 17, 2009 by EinsteinEP Shoot to Kill. Play to Have Fun.
Snacko Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 Yea, I am fairly used to the bump as you call it. It is the new trim value added to the current position of the stick if you have not centered it (as I understand it). I do recenter it, so I don't need the new trim to force me to. Also, I was having problems remembering where the rudder was trimmed (left/right and how far). But I noticed that I can look a the pedals in the cockpit and see where they are. And I am able to cancel out the trim by centering the pedals and then trimming. This is all good info and good to hear how others are using the systems. Snack Officer Intel I9-10850K (OC @ 5.0ghz) │ 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3200 │Gigabyte RTX 4090 Gaming OC 24gb - ҉ - Blackshark Cockpit Trainer - ҉ - ♣ Thread | ♥ Download
Albatros Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 The trimmer in either mode is not a big problem at all for most. It just takes practice like flying the KA-50 in general IMHO. All true, and I fairly manage to fly with my configuration and the old trimmer logic. But generally I think systems should be not too complicated if they don't have to. No moaning, just a suggestion.
lion737 Posted September 1, 2009 Posted September 1, 2009 And I am able to cancel out the trim by centering the pedals and then trimming. What brings us back to the topic: How can I disconnect the rudder from the trim (as there is no need to get rid of force on the pedals, that isn´t there) ?
Guest dyne_cm Posted September 6, 2009 Posted September 6, 2009 What brings us back to the topic: How can I disconnect the rudder from the trim (as there is no need to get rid of force on the pedals, that isn´t there) ? How about assigning another controller's axis (one that has FFB) to the rudder? The presence of FFB should disable the special trimming logic. Disable FFB forces outside of black shark if you don't want the stick to move and take care not to touch the second controller.
ObvilionLost Posted September 6, 2009 Posted September 6, 2009 Really? Are you absolutely certain? I never use trim reset. ;) It depends on joystick you use, for example I use Saitek X-45 with that rocker rudder. It's not precise and impossible to center it perfectly, always have to use, reset trim :joystick: [sIGPIC]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic5472_1.gif[/sIGPIC]:joystick: Win 10 | i5-6600K | 16GB DDR4 RAM | MSI Radeon RX480 | TrackIR 5 | Saitek X52 Zeus Gaming Community
lion737 Posted September 14, 2009 Posted September 14, 2009 How about assigning another controller's axis (one that has FFB) to the rudder? The presence of FFB should disable the special trimming logic. Disable FFB forces outside of black shark if you don't want the stick to move and take care not to touch the second controller. But I couldn´t use my rudder pedals. Thanks for trying to help anyway. But I don´t believe in a solution for non centering pedals anymore and deleted BS from the drive. After flying Lockon for more than 10 years that is a bit disappointing.
scatter Posted September 15, 2009 Posted September 15, 2009 (edited) Doesn't hitting "x" or "z" get rid of rudder trim? Why not just have your trim button perform a macro that involves sending an x or z to the sim as well as trimming? Oh sorry, just read more of the thread and saw that the prob is with the new trim method and the requirement to centre all axes to return to normal. Can you program your axes on your joystick and for the rudder analog value to 128 (middle) after the trim button release? Edited September 15, 2009 by scatter [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Virtual Australian Air Force
Hunt3r.j2 Posted September 15, 2009 Posted September 15, 2009 Wait if we use a Logitech G940 system, do we simply let go of the cyclic and let the rudder center before we trim?
DragonRR Posted September 15, 2009 Posted September 15, 2009 (edited) Wait if we use a Logitech G940 system, do we simply let go of the cyclic and let the rudder center before we trim? There seems to be an issue with the G940 where the stick, by default, recenters itself when you let go because there is a "deadman" sensor. A user mentioned that he covers his up with sticky tape. Logitech have said that it is a safety measure to stop the stick from flying off the desk. I'm not totally sure how the rudder works with the G940 & trim, I suspect you re-center it yourself though. There also seems to be some problem atm with the G940 FFB not working at under 20 deg deflection, Logitech have suggested that this might be the game causing this.. again I'm not sure about this being definite. Edited September 15, 2009 by DragonRR [sIGPIC]Click me to go to the post[/sIGPIC]
lion737 Posted December 1, 2012 Posted December 1, 2012 You can't disconnect the rudder from the trim in the real chopper, so you can't in DCS.. I guess you never flew a heli and don´t know, what you are talking about :cry: In the real Ka-50 the trim does not affect the deflection of the rudder pedals. It only reduces the force on them. As we don´t have any force on our sim-pedals the way DCS is doing the rudder trim is B....sh.t.
PeterP Posted December 1, 2012 Posted December 1, 2012 Yes, it's BS. Use this as fix:How to unchain the rudder from trim
tflash Posted February 25, 2013 Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Reading this long thread just now, I feel relieved: it describes exactly my problems with rudder and trim. The implementation is indeed erroneous and causes the majority of issues with flying the Ka-50. I'm forced to fly as much as possible on stick only, since rudder is porked. Edited February 25, 2013 by tflash [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
JG14_Smil Posted March 31, 2013 Posted March 31, 2013 Single, best modification I have ever done for BS2. I finally modified my pedals for this and I am glad I did!
zaelu Posted March 31, 2013 Posted March 31, 2013 I tried it and then reverted back to "normal". It is absolutely no danger (unless you are traveling at 300+ IAS) to trim rudder too. I wasn't sure if the rest isn't affected... dampening and turn to target so I reverted. I also like to fly hands and legs free and rudder trim helps me do exactly that. Or maybe I made peace with my autopilot now and I like him more... and trust him more :D . [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] I5 4670k, 32GB, GTX 1070, Thrustmaster TFRP, G940 Throttle extremely modded with Bodnar 0836X and Bu0836A, Warthog Joystick with F-18 grip, Oculus Rift S - Almost all is made from gifts from friends, the most expensive parts at least
Recommended Posts