Doughguy

Evening doodle Some surface wear and tear of the paint. cockpit area has most wear along bottom surfaces towards the lowest point and leading edges that get debris going their way. Generally those areas that get alot of manhandling and such.

That would depend on the model / module really, but theyre all in the main directory. Easiest would be to load the cockpit POV model into the model viewer and check what textures are used. Paths to said textures can be looked up from there.

Well well... started reorganizing and cleaning up the diffuse. Some parts i will discard and redo due to the redone panel and riveting map. Had a go at creating masks for the surface wear and test some brushes. not sure if its too much but as its been shown above that its legit. Also repositioned the fuselage cross towards the aft... so double digit bort numbers now have some more space and also stabs markings will work.. Collecting a lot of pictures of dirty surfaces... preferably white vans and trains... people are giving me looks... Of course... the usual UVWs horrors one has to deal with.

Alpha Channel in textures on anysurfaces that you want invisible.

It is what it is i guess. Been bit of an ordeal. The Dora really needs a total overhaul as its pestered with issues and ancient ways of creating 3d models that it really hurt to create textures so far... Eg. overlapping UVW´s etc I´m gonna do the stressed skin now. Some reference hunt first. From that point on the normal map will be generated and following masks etc for diffuse etc.

Last bit for today. riveted and screwd (huehuehue) the canopy. Final touch ups for the riveting and panels tomorrow, then i move on to "stress" the skin... Gotta love them UVW´s...

Thanks, reflected made a mini campaign. Not sure if its out yet.

Cheers guys. I´m lookin to finish the panel and riveting work this weekend. It wont be perfect due to obvious limitations the template provides... but i think the result will be nicer. And i also wanna move on since its quite tiresome. The Dora kinda lacks good documentation in that respect and i have to do a lot of research only to find that i have to work with cutbacks cause the template (model) does not fit, or vice versa. I´ve already tried to crank up the brightness/contrast levels to use that texture as a chipping mask for worn edges similar to what crazybump would generate from a normal map. results look promising! Will have to alter the diffuse according to the panel work but that was forseable hence ive done only minimal work in that field. Still havent touched any of the interour and fuselage, gear wells etc.. but thatll be a step after ive done the exterior shell. Small Update: Finished the taping of the contro surfaces. Will have to redo the cloth structure as it was too coarse previously, makin it look like a haversack. Added the base of the antenna, added hinges and fixed various areas. Unfortunately we´ll have to live without welding seams on the supercharger scoop.. Also, ive fixed the rivetin pattern on the flaps. Pretty nifty what one can find on ebay as ref.

More work... a silver lining... most riveting is done. Canopy and few small things missing. Added the external power supply and flare chute. Started working on the control surfaces with their taped appearances. MG hood has skewed UVWs so i have to omit the horizontal lines on it.. same with the welding lines on the supercharger scoop... *onecanthavenicethings...*

Thx bud. I guess maybe ive explained myself badly. Chipping happend yes but not as an overall even pattern and not as flaky as often portrayed. The rlm paint rather wore off so all the walkways used by crew and pilot were rather prone to abrasion. At least judging by the soft appearence of that respective area. This corresponds with what ive read about rlm paints bein rather fine and chalk like. Us paints applied thickly would crack and chip easily after few hours (what ive read). Same pattern can be observed on the doras albeit less as these were "consumed" rather fast before they could devolp such level of wear telling from the pics ive seen. But some chipping here and there due to debris etc. Yes. Happens but not how its usually shown in games/models. More interestingly it appears that also wings of (at least) some doras were puttied like the mustang, however its not entirely clear to me how. Theres accounts of putty bein used on the front half of the wing, but also just several layers of paint (again front half of wing) which in turn just gets sanded down do gain a smooth surface (there goes my riveting....). Funnily enough that would sort of explain why some doras and antons had the front half of wings painted in the known manner. Also judging from the pics said abrasions (like on the above pic) found on the walk ways appear rather dull and of bright color and uniform appearance under different lightning. So i come to the conclusion that that respective area has been puttied. Also im pretty sure theres a eff ton of dirt and grime on that area.. But its hard to tell or be sure from observations alone given the fact that late machines werent primed at all or even puttied with a dedicated putty anymore. So basicaly all "chipping" and wear would show bare aluminium.. might also be a production run also... but i cant tell... i dont have any of the dora bibles by crandall and japo so if anyone knows, input is highly appreciated. I wanna do this right (as much as possible given the frame ED provides...) .. Thx guys.

Some more rivetin. Bulk is done. Some adjustments, which unfortunately are a real pita due to the skewed UVW´s... Means, if i find good ref, i cant really apply it. So the Dora Tex will just be a fancy look-a-like... Some panels still have to be corrected. Eg, removed the first aid panel/hatch, as i couldnt find it on any ref pics. Some hinges have to be corrected etc.

Quote from Robert Forsyths book Fw 190D-9 Defence of the Reich 1944–45

Would be nice, however, the AI would be a major PITA as it would fly just like during the day.

to some extend yes.

Some interesting things ive come across during todays research seassion while getting home. As ive read the RLM colors are rather chalky and dont chip as much as US counterparts which are rather thick in finish. Also heavy wear as on chipping doesnt seem to occur and appears to be heavily overdone in 3d and modelkits. The RLM colors wore rather down on abbrasion primarily it appears especialy on the wingroots where the usual textures show heavily flaky chipping. However they indeed are dirty af. Already collecting ref pics to use as base for getting dirty with this bird. Pics also show quite well how uneven the panels were and how much warping was going on. Also riveting thats rather uneven.

Pic of said Blue 12. You can easily make out some different colored patches and the mg housing has a replaced corner in bare metal.

Hi. Thx. Ive skimmed some literature and studies photos. Im no expert but you have to keep in mind its 44/45. Situation is dire. Rlm colors used as available. No primer used on aluminium surfaces but just thin layers applied by unskilled force labor workers. Very few veteran pilots left. Young pilots fall like flies in their new machines. So field repairs -if even necessary as losses were high and write offs a regularity- would devise anything the mechanics could get their hands on. So any color that somehow matched the original color. Primer or not. Or just left bare metal. Some holes might be just patched up with cloth patches like seen on the 190 gear covers. Other parts were cannibalized and cut to fit and riveted. The late doras and kurfürsts were real frankensteins. At least thats what ive gathered. So anything goes. Best documented example is fw190d9 blue 12.

Yup same approach i do. I just skipped redrawing lines as placeholders and just used exiting literature and photographs as guides. You need some adjusting here and there and i work panel by panel with some rough guiding lines so panels and rivets align but it works quite well. However, since the Mustang and Dora vary a lot from their real life counterparts its hard to follow said photographs so the in case ofthe Dora its gonna be some b@stard child of a focke wulf.. Think same case should be with the Mustang Yeah adjusting mismatched gaps across UV islands is easier since you can just select a point of each shape and accurately adjust it by movin it with the arrow keys on the keyboard. However it wont help with jacked UVW´s... if they´re faulty.. they´re faulty. You coult compensate but imho it just not worth it if its barely visible. The Dora suffers from skewed ,faulty and poorly laid out UVW´s alot...

Cheers bud. Half the job or even more is just observation. So gathering ref pics like a magpie on crack is what i do.

A mate of mine is using twist for rudder aswell. He has problems with breaks tho as cause they rather need an axis input.

Feel your pain with the dotting man since i do a 4k retex of the dora myself. Good work so far! As a note tho: If you´re going to use this map as a base for a normal map, make sure that some panels/parts overlap and are situated over the main panels. Usually renders in a not so visible line around said part. Usually its the wing filets and such. For that i work off of a grey base and adjust the protrustion of the panels/parts by either darkening or highlighting said part. It´s pita working in that old skewl way especially if you have skewed uvw´s.... so yeah cant help it but make the most of it.

Wing underside and part of the ventral fuselage. Noticed some panel errors here and there. Cant really split the panel around exhaust as the uvw´s are really skewed... sowwy..

Well well, riveting like rosie, And suddenly, overlappin UVW´s

On the 190s you dont have to pull back all the way to lock the tail. At 100 kph you slowly but steadily release on the stick to neutral. At 120 she takes off. Pull a bit on the stick as both 190s are rather nose trimmed. Also keep the stick to the right aswell about half way to counter rolling. Once she gains speed past 120 kph neutralize the stick aswell. Rudder full to the right aswell due to torque. But release once you start gaining speed. Dont have it slammed the whole way youll overdo! Rather slam, release correct a bit, release, correct etc. Basically youd do the same with the mustang if you dont trim the rudder. Only that the mustang responds a bit faster compared to the 190s. Coordination is a bit tricky but just treat her lightly. Shes a classic lady that needs to be carried over the doorstep.