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Everything posted by VZ_342
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I’m handy with mechanical stuff, if you need more help just send a PM. I’m north of Seattle, can do facetime, video chat, or Skype. What kind of pedals? I have CH Pro pedals.
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Awesome, much appreciated.
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Made my own shoot 'em up scenario, minus the weather...not bad, not bad.
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Just curious, how does one replay .trk files?
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Definitely would have different mission parameters than anything currently available. Be pretty cool to fly one too.
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I'm putting together a simpit roughly based on the SU-25. I'm using a salvaged keyboard's matrix and a lot of momentary switches. However, I want a way to use regular on-off toggles, not momentary switches. I need this mainly to control a pair of relays to activate (for example) Left Control + Space ("LC+Sp"). A momentary toggle works great, but I'd like to be able to use the rotary switches on the weapons panel as designed, not as a rotary momentary. I do recall an Arduino that does this sort of thing--a toggle switch applies a voltage to a pin, and the output of the Arduino sends a pulse to activate (insert whatever here). I understand simpler electronic stuff (relays, switches, resistors, LEDs etc) and will be using the simpit as a learning device...but in the meantime, can anyone help with the Arduino question? Thank you!
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I have a CVN in the Mission Editor...iirc it's the Stennis. Probably a very basic rendering, but there it is. A screenshot seconds before being shot down as well as my 4 AI comrades overhead. (Tip: Don't spawn directly overhead a CVN.)
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Irony is...criticizing a bad miltary (re:realism) movie by quoting a bad TV (re:realism) series. That said...M*A*S*H was great for entertainment, and the short clip of F/A18 vs Russian SAM was actually pretty darn cool, as far as entertainment is concerned. Good graphics, aggressive flying, flares...yes drop tank fire ball was a bit over the top but ejection scene following was superb. I’m not a real pilot nor am I a connoisseur of anything more complex than a Snickers bar...but it was good for me.
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Those trike ultralights...are they PFM?
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fyi, you can press "print screen" (PrtSc, usually just right of F12) and get a computer-based image of the screen...don't need to use a camera. Re: firing cannon Pressing 2 gets you into BVR (Beyond Visual Range--a long range missile setting.) I would suggest pressing 8--Interrupter Reticule visee Canon--only because it has the word "Canon" in it. Or pressing 7 (the typical A-to-G selection, with 6 being A to A. In A to A with cannons selected, you should see a "snake" thing which is the bullet impact envelope, which moves around as you fly. In both cases, press c for cannons.
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** DCS: F-14 Development Update - September!! **
VZ_342 replied to Cobra847's topic in DCS: F-14A & B
If the F-14, A-6, and the A-4 are all released in October...oooohhh...! So excited! -
Very. Seems a bit “steampunk”-ish, but of course that is never a bad thing. If it had dual throttles that would be awesome! (When I upgrade my HOTAS X it will be to a dual throttle with a lot of switches!)
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Quick thought I had: During WW2 Allied bombers were also crude, and susceptible to “interference”. Their answer was to use mass formations, with only the lead bomber actually “aiming”, everyone else just made sure they were in tight formation. Made me grin ear to ear, having 30-40 SU-25A’s (or more!) in a tight bomber-style formation (any altitude above 500 meters) dropping a big ol’ load on an airfield or other “designated area” iust to see the effect (bomb dispersal, crater pattern, etc)
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Location? It is common practice (and greatly appreciated) to update the first post of a thread announcing a mod to include a link to any updated mod, as well as mod number (and in DCS’ case, which version(s) it works with.) Thanks!
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This is not a bug, nor is it jittery nerves... When I try to aim (put the aiming reticle on the target), everything is nice and smooth until I get within half a pipper or so, and then it's like I hit a bit of turbulence. Pipper goes up/down/left/right at random, as if a gust of wind suddenly came up. When this happens, I'm too close to the target to correct, so I just watch closely and pickle weapons a split second before the pipper crosses the target...and sometimes it works, sometimes a new gust of wind nudges me out of the target aiming. Just looking for suggestions. I already have a minor weak zone set for pitch and yaw to reduce aiming sensitivity. Maybe there's a specific setting? Or do I just keep fiddling? :joystick:
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Only a month or two....
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Show off time! Replaced the LEDs, installed the resistors (also checked with a voltmeter for full range of dimmer voltage prior to plugging in the panel)...and hey ho, the merry-oh:
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Sometimes aircraft need ground power to make things go...if grd pwr isn’t modeled yet that may be the issue (and answer!) you mentioned
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Iirc, you should turn on electricity prior to engine start, so the radios should work. On topic: When flying an actual aircraft, checking emergency stuff isn’t just to delay the launch, it’s an actual life-and-death Real Thing™. So, technically it’s not needed but if you want to get the most out of DCS you should abide by proper procedures.
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Yay, lucky me! Quick disassemble, snip the LEDs from the wire, and discovered the epoxy I used holds the LEDs in place, but can be defeated by grasping the leads and twisting the LED out of its hole. Needs a quicky touch-up with the 1/8” drill bit (marked so I don’t drill all the way thru) and epoxy the new LEDs...should be all soldered up with an hour or two. And yes, the resistors are in place, soldered and heat shrinked. :thumbup:
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So there I was, happily finishing up the DIY SU-25 weapons panel. All holes drilled, all metal folds made, panel engraving done and painted, switches in, wiring to panel connectors made, LEDs for backlighting installed, wired, and checked... Lookin’ purty good! “Better put in the LED resistors now, won’t be using the reduced voltage power supply...”, I thought. Unhooked the voltage supply, and realized the wire from the dimmer controller wasn’t yet made or run to the weapons panel...well, now’s a good time to do that! “Wait, you should put in the LED resistors now, you’ll forget if you don’t...!”, I thought. Oh, poppycock! The wires will only take a couple minutes, then I’ll be right on those resistors! Strung the wires, plugged it in, and turned brightness full ON! And...nothing. WTH?! Oh yeah, I’d plugged in the drill so the dimmer is unplugged! No problemo, unplug the drill, plug in the dimmer, and crank it up! The LEDs...ah, the LEDs! The letters shone bright red, awesome to beho.... Click. Where’s the LED lights?! Oh. My. $\*+! *sigh* Fortunately no other damage was done, and disassembly will be easy. I’ll just have to drill out 18 3mm LEDs and re-wire the backlighting panel. Resistors. NEVER FORGET THE RESISTORS!
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It was The Kraken...